Category Archives: Dog Training

Should I Have My Dog Heel for His Entire Walk?

 

When to Ask Your Dog to Heel — and When to Let Him Explore

While it’s important to allow your dog some freedom on his walks, it’s also important to impose some structure. Don’t allow walks to become a free-for-all where your dog jerks and tugs you along like a balloon on a string. For dogs who need extra guidance during walks, management tools like front clip harnesses and head halterscan help decrease pulling behavior and provide increased control in a gentle fashion.

No matter what walking tool you use, don’t let your dog drag you along behind him. It’s important that you teach him that only a loose leash, never a tight leash, earns forward movement.

While a loose leash allows your dog to make the most of his walks, it is crucial that he also learn to heel on command. A reliable heel makes it easier for you and your dog to navigate in smaller spaces, like the veterinarian’s waiting room, and it gives you more control over your dog in crowded or high-distraction areas.

Teaching your dog to heel also provides a measure of safety, both for him and for anyone you may encounter on your walks. Ask your dog to heel when you pass another person or dog or encounter a jogger, biker, skateboarder or stroller. Having your dog close to you in this situation allows you to manage interactions and move him away, particularly if he is uncertain, fearful or reactive.

In most cases, you can direct your dog from a loose leash walk into a heel in response to specific distractions or challenges, such as crossing the street or passing another walker. Once the distraction has passed, rewardyour dog by releasing him to walk on the loose leash again. Additionally, it’s possible to increase your dog’s natural desire to be near you during the loose leash walk by paying attention to and rewarding him when he naturally draws near or checks in with eye contact.

Walk your way to a better outing with your pup by doing what works for you both and interchangeably moving from the loose leash to heel as desired for practice or as needed for the situation. Happy tails and trails to you on your walking journeys together!

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Basic Dog Obedience: Dog Obedience Training

How Can I Get My Distracted Dog to Pay Attention to Me?

Dog pulling leash

My Golden Retriever is so distracted on walks — she looks at anything and everything except for me. I can’t get her to listen to anything I say! The only thing saving us from disaster is her front clip harness — if it weren’t for that, I would have no control of her at all. What can I do to get and keep her attention?

It’s understandably frustrating to feel like the only thing connecting you and your dog during walks is the leash between you. But don’t give up! It’s possible to refocus your dog’s attention on walks. The key is to create a strong foundation of communication with your pup; this can help increase her focus on you both at home and on outings.

Communication Makes All the Difference

Good communication starts with consistency. Your first step is to teach your dog what behaviors earn her rewards and what behaviors will be ignored. You want to focus specifically on teaching calm, focused behaviors. For example, when your dog greets people, reward her for keeping all four paws on the ground instead of jumping up on your visitor. Consistently reinforce the behaviors you want to see more of and ignore those you want to put a stop to.

A reward can be anything your dog values or desires. Examples include tasty treats, favorite toys, petting, praise or extra play time. Use rewards throughout the day to reinforce existing good behaviors — for example, reward her with praise or petting when she waits patiently at the door when visitors arrive. Rewards can also be used to increase her tendency to respond to requests you make of her, such as rewarding with a toy or treat when she sits on command.

If your dog doesn’t do an asked-for behavior or if her behavior is undesirable, remove your attention and wait for more acceptable behavior to naturally occur, such as a quiet rather than a barking mouth, or prompt another behavior she understands, like sit or touch. Immediately reward the acceptable behavior. Most dogs quickly learn which behaviors earn them something fun and which don’t.

You may also need to help your dog get in the right frame of mind for a walk. Golden Retrievers are bred to hunt and retrieve hidden items, and this may be what your dog is trying to do on her walks. In order to make it easier for her to focus on you, it is important that you find productive ways for her to channel her excess energy before you head out to stroll the neighborhood.

Games like “find it,” structured tug and fetch can help to fulfill your dog’s desire to work and move. Playing one of these games prior to a walk can help alleviate some of your dog’s excess tension and energy and make her more likely to listen to your commands when you’re on your walk.

Help Your Dog Manage Distractions

Once your dog is willingly and consistently following commands, gradually add distractions when you ask your dog to do a specific behavior, like sit or make eye contact. Ideally, this training should be done in low-distraction areas like your yard or driveway, an alley or parking lot or on the sidewalk in front of your home. Then try these commands on walks during less populated times, such as early morning, later evening or midday.

Once your dog can pay attention to your commands with some distractions around her, you can gradually expand her walks to include parts of your neighborhood or times of the day with more distractions.

To increase your success, start slow and keep expectations low to begin with. Reward short duration, low-effort behaviors. For instance, even though your dog may be able to stay or make eye contact for 10 seconds (or more) at home, only a second or two should be necessary to earn a reward on beginning walks.

As your dog gains confidence, these reward-worthy moments can be gradually expanded. Making requests too difficult or the reward not significant enough can cause your dog to associate following your commands with a loss of freedom and fun.

Ultimately, success largely rests on ensuring that your dog’s attention is properly and consistently rewarded. A walk is a big chain of events that allows you to reinforce and build desired behavior using things your dog appreciates. Rewards for your dog don’t just have to be tangible treats or toys — forward movement, greeting people, sniffing desired areas and walking on a loose leash can all be useful rewards for good behavior.

You may also benefit from switching from a front clip harness to a head halter. Head halters can offer additional control over harder-to-manage dogs and may help you get a better handle on your dog during walks.

 

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Clicker Training for Dogs

 Clicker Training Your Dog

The new wave of pet animal training focuses on positive or reward-based training only. The idea is to train your dog to perform certain desired behaviors rather than to punish unwanted behavior. For example, you would not train a dog to stop barking by punishing the unwanted behavior; instead you would reward the silence that inevitably follows.

Timing of rewards is critical. If a dog stops barking for three seconds and you have to reach into your pocket for a food treat and then walk toward the dog to deliver it, the moment may have already passed. Yet it is difficult to have primary rewards (food, water, toys) handy at all times, so how can this best be managed?

The answer is using a “secondary re-enforcer,” like praise or a neutral cue that signals that the primary re-enforcer is due. In animal training, whistles and clicks have been used as secondary re-enforcers, though you can also use your voice. Clicks made by small plastic clickers (“frogs”) are probably the best and most consistent way of marking the successful accomplishment of a behavior.

Initially the click is meaningless to the dog but it doesn’t take long for it to realize that a click signals something good. At this stage, a click can be used to reward a desired behavior instantly, accurately, and even from a distance. Engaging in clicker training is fun for the pet owner and the pet. It’s constructive, produces rapid results, and the learning is indelible. Clicker training doesn’t mean you have to spend hours a day teaching yourself and your pet what to do – a few minutes a day is all it takes. Treat yourself: Go out and buy a clicker kit and get started, and throw away that old choke chain.  Here is Dog clicker training:

  • Choose a quiet location where you can be alone and undisturbed with your dog.
  • Have a supply of food treats on hand. Diced up hotdog, chicken, bacon, or cheese, are good treats. The treats should be diced up into pea-sized chunks.
  • Have your clicker in your hand or attached to your belt.Step 1. Pair a click with a reward – for nothing at first. Click-treat; click-treat; and so on. By the end of this stage you should:a) Have your dog’s undivided attention
    b) Notice that your dog has learned to associate the new sound with a reward.Step 2. Begin to click and treat only when the dog has engaged in some desired behavior. Initially, chose a behavior that the dog readily performs, like sitting or looking at you (i.e. go with the natural flow). There are two circumstances in which a click (followed by reward) is indicated:1). Immediately on completion of a finished behavior (e.g. sitting).
    2). When your dog takes a step or two in the right direction of a behavior that you would like to encourage (e.g. if he moves toward that newspaper you want him to pick up), subsequently rewarding progressively closer moves toward your eventual behavioral goal for him. This process is called “shaping.”Step 3.Add a verbal cue to signal your willingness to reward a finished behavior. Click only when the dog performs the desired behavior when the verbal cue is given. E.g. click coming to you only after you have cued, “come.”

    Note: Vary the time between the click and the treat from immediate to a second or two later. The dog learns from this maneuver that a click signals that a treat is coming even though he might not know precisely where or when. He also learns that if he performs a behavior that you approve of he can make you click… and that means food.

Specific Exercises Dog Clicker Training

Sit If your dog does not sit quickly enough to allow you to click and reward, you can lure him into sitting. First, put a food treat in your closed hand and position your hand over the dog’s head. As he shows interest in the enclosed treat gradually move your hand back over the dog’s head so that, in the process of following it, the dog will naturally assume the sitting posture. Then click and reward.

It doesn’t have to be a great sit at first – just an excuse for a sit will be fine. You can refine the sit later by progressively raising the bar on what will be clicked and rewarded. Remember that the click signals the successful completion of any phase of the behavior and that a “real” reward is due – but not when that real reward (e.g. food) will be given.

Off If your dog jumps up on you during training don’t react. Don’t do anything until he has “four feet on the floor.” Then click and reward. Repeat this as necessary.

Down Similar to training sit but with a different trajectory for the food lure.

a) Show the dog your clenched fist containing the food treat.
b) Slowly lower your fist toward his chest, between the elbows. The dog’s head will follow the treat so that he assumes a “hunkered over” posture.
c) Next, move your fist (still clenched) slowly away from the dog so that he slides forward… and down.

Don’t worry if it doesn’t go fully according to plan at first attempt. Remember to start by rewarding even approximations toward the desired behavior, “shaping” the complete behavior in stages.

Long Sit/Down Once your dog has learned to sit or lie down to make you click, you can start shaping the behavior toward longer durations of these behaviors. To accomplish this, do not click right away but rather delay the click and reward by a few seconds. The length of delay can be increased clicking only once to signal the end of the required behavior. The dog will learn that if he sits or lies down for long enough a click and treat will eventually come.

Fading the Lure Of course, you don’t have to keep food in your clenched hand and wave it around forever in order to get your dog to perform. Once a behavior is occurring with the appropriate hand movements, simply stop using them and wait for the response to occur without direction and of the dog’s own volition.

Come Start by sitting on the floor or crouching down and calling your dog to you. Look enthusiastic and pat or scratch the floor in front of you. “Buddy, come here, good boy.” If Buddy comes, click – reward and move to another location. Repeat this exercise many times. If you have more than one person you can practice this recall between 2 or 3 people. Each one calls the dog in turn and whenever he responds to the call successfully – click and treat.

Dog owners will probably want to take this show on the road. First – try the same exercise in a quiet yard, with a long leash attached. But never jerk the leash or haul the dog to you. The leash is just to keep him within a certain radius of you and limit his area of interest. If all successful “comes” are clicked and well rewarded the behavior will become almost automatic.

Golden rules

a) Never coerce the “come.”
b) Never punish or chastise an imperfect response.
c) Never call a dog to punish him.

And remember, in order to solidify the response during every day life use the “come” command plus a click and treat for coming when you have anything special to offer to your dog e.g. a car ride, dinner, a special food treat, or new toy.

Walking to Heel Actually, walking to heel is not very important, but walking with a slack lead and not pulling is important. As usual with clicker training, start with baby steps. Attach the lead and coax your dog to stand at your left side by patting your left thigh. Click, reward. Take a pace forward and coax him to join you – not with a food treat as a lure – by calling him along enthusiastically. “Come on Buddy, let’s go” (patting thigh). If (and when) he takes a pace forward click-treat. Click for one pace, then for two, and so on. Pretty soon you’ll be up and walking. Click him while he is in motion. That stops him; then give the treat and off you go again.

Voice Commands We mentioned using voice cues to train come, but not sit, down, or walk to heel. Don’t worry, commands can be added later, after the behavior has been shaped. Your dog will soon learn that he is rewarded if he responds in the desired way only after the requisite command has been given.

 

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Crate Training a Puppy

Although opinions vary about the value of crate training, a crate can be a useful tool when house training a young puppy, or even an adult dog. For dogs, a crate can be a place of sanctuary, a place of retreat from the busy home life. Some experts consider properly conducted crate training as imperative as appropriate healthcare, timely neutering, and obedience training. At the other end of the spectrum are folk who would no sooner confine a dog to a crate than lock their children in the laundry closet.
Not all dogs respond the same way to crates. Some gravitate to them willingly; others detest them and will injure themselves in them while trying to escape. Why the difference? Nurture and developmental experience have a lot to do with the answer. Dogs forced to stay in crates, or other small confined places, under extreme adverse circumstances develop a “post-traumatic” association and will panic when confronted with similar confinement. On the other hand, a dog that has been well managed in a crate as a youngster may positively revel his crate as a place of security and comfort.

  • Bad experiences in a crate include lengthy confinement for many hours at a time, infrequent attention during confinement, and absence of attachment figures. For dogs that have had unpleasant experiences in a crate, confinement may be viewed in the same light as prison to an ex-inmate – an experience to be avoided.
  • Good experiences in a crate include circumstances that permit the crate to be viewed as a retreat or place of comfort, freedom to come and go (the door is left open periodically so that the dog is not always confined), company inside or outside the crate, and regular feeding and bathroom trips.For a dog that has been well acclimated, a crate can be a haven, a place of comfort, a retreat from the world…a den, in fact. Many dog owners think that, because dogs are den dwellers at heart, they will all automatically appreciate a crate. But real dens do not have doors. This is why care must be taken to encourage your dog to view his den as a retreat or sanctuary.

    Crate Training Your Puppy

    For the owner, careful crate training can help to deal with housebreaking. Most dogs respect the sanctity of den, and their nature directs them against soiling the nest area. Thus, a crate can be used to confine a dog between unsuccessful excursions to a selected outside “bathroom” area.
    No matter what age you begin crate training your dog, all experiences within the crate should be good ones. Ideally, begin with a very young pup (the most malleable substrate), and establish good associations with each exposure to the crate. This can be arranged by:

  • Allowing the pup free access to the crate so that he can come and go at will prior to confining him
  • Make the crate a comfortable place by putting a blanket and perhaps some toys inside
  • Praise the pup every time he goes in the crate
  • Confine the pup (shut the door of the crate) for short periods of time, at first, ensuring that company is at hand (either you or a closely bonded canine counterpart)
  • Never use the crate as a place of punishment
  • Make sure that no one disturbs the pup when he is inside the crate so the crate comes to be appreciated as a place of refugeUsing the above protocol, there is no reason that the dog should not gravitate toward the crate for rest and relaxation. If this is achieved, the dog will find the crate amongst his favorite places in life. Unfortunately, because of bad experiences, many dogs grow up loathing their crate with a vengeance, acting out in one way or another whenever they are confined.

    Crate Training Your Adult Dog

    The following is a program by which older dogs can be introduced or even reintroduced to crates as a place of refuge. The goal is to systematically desensitize the dog by making the crate appear as benign as possible.

  • Position the crate in a high traffic area of the house and make the interior of the crate comfortable and inviting
  • Enrich the space with food treats/toys and initially, always leave the door open
  • Feed the dog progressively closer to the entrance of the crate, and reward him with praise as he gets closer to the crate
  • Eventually, move the food bowl across the threshold of the crate and then just inside the crate so that he has to put his head and shoulders inside in order to eat
  • Move the food bowl progressively further towards the back of the crate so that the dog has to go further inside to eat
  • Always praise the dog for being in or near the crate
  • Do not confine the dog in the crate until he shows that he will enter willingly and of his own accord
  • If things go well with the acclimation, the next thing is to try closing and fastening the door for brief periods, while staying in the area.
  • Gradually, the duration of confinement can be increased. Eventually you may be able to leave the dog confined for considerable periods of time and have tranquility prevail
  • Do not leave the dog alone in the crate while you are away until he is perfectly comfortable being in it while you are thereThe program may take time but it will work. Note: With any behavioral modification scheme, like crate training, the golden rule is that if there is no progress in 3 to 5 days, change the strategy. It is important to emphasize throughout training and beyond that the crate should never be a place in which the dog has any negative experiences.

    Dominant Dogs and Crates

    In general, dominant dogs resist anything that they don’t like and will protect anything that they enjoy. If you try to force a dominant dog into a crate against his will, you have a pretty good idea of how he will respond. You might get such a dog into the crate eventually, but only with much growling, snapping, or even attempts to bite. Conversely, a dominant dog that views his crate as his own personal space may take the opposite tack and begin space guarding, i.e. growling at people who approach the crate or attempt to remove him.

    Crating Dogs with Separation Anxiety

    For some dogs with separation anxiety, the crate can be a place of refuge from their woes. They may be much happier inside a crate when their owner is away than when wandering free. For others, crates are an imposition, a misery, and an obstacle to be overcome at the expense of broken teeth and fractured claws. Owners return home to find these dogs bug-eyed, in a frenzy, and salivating profusely, and may even come home to find the crate splattered with urine, feces, and/or blood. For such dogs, the use of a crate is not a good approach, at least, not without a lot of retraining.

    Crating the Compulsives

    Then there is the third group of crate-astrophes, the compulsive dogs. These dogs may have already suffered boredom and inadequate stimulation as a result of long hours of confinement. Such dogs, depending on their individual predilections will, variously, lick themselves, spin in circles, chase their own tails, or pace mindlessly. And crates may precipitate such behavior. Crates are usually contraindicated for dogs with such conditions.

    Conclusion

    Crates are good tools for some dogs, some of the time. But, even when the crate works well for a dog, it is unwise to confine the dog for more than 4 to 6 hours a day to avoid having the crate becoming associated with negative experiences. Every dog should have an open door crate to go in if they so desire: A place to go when things get hectic, just for a little peace. Used in this way, a crate can be as much appreciated by the dog as having a room of their own room is appreciated by teenagers. And it is possible, once the dog enjoys the crate to close the door on occasion. But remember, confinement is for the convenience of the owners, not the dog’s, and should be employed sparingly.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Dog Obedience Training Philosophies: Which is Best for Your Dog?

Obedience training is basically an education in good manners. And, just as it’s more pleasant to be around well-mannered people, so a well-behaved dog is more warmly welcomed than his overactive, aggressive canine cousin.

In fact, obedience training is critical in nurturing the most positive aspects of human-animal relationship. Its basic elements – sit, down, stay, come and heel – help shape a good canine citizen.

Obedience-trained dogs have an easier life than their untrained peers. If they resist jumping up on strangers, sit or lie quietly when asked, and walk politely on lead, they’re bound to spend more time with their owners going to picnics, ballparks and dinner parties. So, instead of thinking of a training program as a series of empty rituals, think of an education that will assist your dog coping in the real world.

Obedience Classes

If you’re inexperienced with training, consider enrolling your dog in a formal class (puppies can join “kindergartens” or pre-novice classes).

Most basic obedience classes – typically at the “novice” or “pre-novice” level – include the basic exercises: “sit,” “down,” “stay,” “come” and “heel.” Each plays an important role in day-to-day communication between people and their dogs – improving pups’ manners even and their safety.

An experienced instructor can help guide you through issues, such as the timing of rewards when your dog “listens” and the best way to respond when he doesn’t listen. Even your facial expressions or body posture can affect your dog’s performance – subtle influences that you may not be able to detect without the help of a trainer.

In some classes, time is also devoted to exercises and behaviors such as: jumping up, dropping objects on command, and controlled walking (without a formal “heel”). There may be socialization exercises and short lectures on relevant topics in addition to the training.

An interesting evolution in thinking often occurs when people join training classes. Though they may have signed up for just one class – typically eight weeks of training – they enjoy the experience so much that they often re-enroll for the next level of training, and then the next.

To teach your dog anything new, the successfully completed task must result in some kind of reward. It’s unrealistic to imagine that your dog will perform a task simply because it pleases you – though some do seem particularly keen to satisfy their owners. But petting a dog may not be enough for some critters, especially for those excited dogs who would rather cavort than be petted by you, their momentary obstacle.

In order to convince your dog that training exercises are fun, consider what he’ll work hardest for. For many dogs, the most compelling reward is a small piece of delicious food, such as breakfast cereal or freeze-dried liver. Others work for petting or praise.

Applying What You’ve Both Learned

Remember to use and practice exercises after you’ve been taught them. Your dog may “stay” beautifully in class, but may “act deaf” in other environments. So, help him practice – in your home, the backyard, near playgrounds and crowded shopping plazas. If you keep after him, he’ll remember to apply the skills he’s mastered in any circumstance, and will become the companion you always knew he could be

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

12 General Rules for Training A Dog

12 General Rules for Training Dogs

1. Training  a dog should be an enjoyable experience for you and your dog. If you are not in the right mood for training, don’t even start. Keep training sessions short, on the order of 5-10 minutes, to maintain your dog’s motivation.

If your dog doesn’t respond appropriately to a command after several attempts, don’t reward him. Resume training a few seconds later using a simpler command. Return to the more complex task later.

Always end training on a positive note. Ask your dog to respond to a command you know he will obey. Then reward him for a job well done and issue a finish command such as “free” or “release.” Avoid common words such as “okay.” Following a training session, both owner and dog should be left with a feeling of accomplishment.

2. Every dog should be familiar with the basic obedience commands, includingcome, heel, sit, down and stay. Teaching your dog to sit-stay and down-stay off leash is also a valuable lesson. Additional commands that are useful include: leave it, give it, stop it, and enough or cease.

Keep in mind that a dog’s motivation to respond to a command decreases as the complexity of the task increases. The odds of success, hinge not only on the degree of sophistication of the task but also your dog’s motivation to respond. From a dog’s perspective the question is, which is more rewarding, chasing the squirrel or returning to the owner? Understanding this aspect will increase your patience and chances for success.

3. Training your dog should not involve any negative or punishment-based components. There should be no yelling, no hitting, no chain jerking, no hanging, and absolutely no electric shock. Each session should be upbeat and positive with rewards for jobs well done.

Remember that the opposite of reward is not punishment; it is no reward. If you ignore unacceptable responses, your dog will not be rewarded for his failed response. Most dogs want to please their owners or, at the very least, to obtain highly valued resources (food, attention and toys).

4. Ensure that your dog’s motivation for reward is highest during a training session. If food is the reward, train before a meal, not after. If praise, petting and other aspects of your attention are to be used as a reward, schedule the training session at a time when your dog hungers for your attention (for example, after you have returned from work).

For complex tasks, such as the off leash down-stay, your dog will be more motivated to comply if he has received moderate exercise before the training session. Asking a dog that is bursting with energy to remain in a prolonged reclining position is asking for failure during the early stages of training.

5. Make sure the reward you offer in training is the most powerful one for your dog. Food-motivated dogs work well for food, but the treats used should be favorite foods for the dog, such as small pieces of cheese or freeze-dried liver. You want your dog to be strongly motivated to obey commands to receive the treat.

Food treats, if used, should be small – no bigger than the size of your little fingernail. The texture of the treat should be such that it does not require chewing and should not crumble, otherwise you will lose your dog’s attention as he Hoovers up the crumbs. Large treats, like Milk Bones®, take too long to eat, causing the dog to lose attention.

If praise is used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Also, enthusiasm in your voice will be much appreciated. If petting is to be used as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog’s hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows, or scratching him on the chest. Note: Petting on top of the head is not appreciated by most dogs.

6. Timing of the reward is important. After a correct response, reward your dog within ½ second of the command to ensure that your dog makes the connection between his behavior and the reward.

7. Use short commands such as sit, down, leave it, quiet, out, and off. Say the word once. Do not repeat the command. Dogs will remember a command for about two minutes before the notion is lost. Shorter words are better than longer words and words that end in a hard consonant (C, K, T, X) are better than those that end in a vowel because you can “spit” them out.

The only command that should have three sounds associated with it is come. In this case, you first have to attract the dog’s attention by saying his name, ROVER, then COME (the actual command word) and GOOD BOY, even before the dog comes so that he knows he is not in trouble. Make sure your tone is crisp and cheerful.

8. Put your dog on a leash and attract his attention so he looks directly at you and you at him (“Watch-me”). Then issue an action word, SIT. A poorly trained dog might slowly get into the sitting position, at which point you reward him IMMEDIATELY with praise, GOOD BOY, ROVER, (remember the high tones and heartfelt deliverance) and at the same time as you immediately produce the reward.

An untrained dog will have to be assisted into the sitting position by moving a food treat over and above his head so that he has to sit to reach it. Successful accomplishment of the task is meets with warm praise and the food treat. In some cases, placement techniques (tension on collar, downward pressure on the rump) may have to be used.

9. Once you have a dog performing the desired response greater than 85 percent of the time in a quiet undisturbed environment, you can move onto the next stage; starting to shape the behavior toward the ideal response. You might begin by rewarding a progressively faster SIT, that is, rewarding the dog for sitting in 3 seconds, later in 2 seconds, and ultimately in 1 second, or immediately.

Decide before you give the command what you are going to reward. You can also start to reward longer and more definite SITS so the dog has to do more than just touch his rear end on the ground to receive reward. Withhold the food treat until the dog is sitting properly and then gradually introduce a time delay before the reward is given.

10. Gradually increase the length of time the dog must remain in a SIT-STAYuntil he can remain relaxed in this position for one minute while the owner is at a distance of 5 feet. Continue to increase the time and distance the dog is asked to remain in a SIT-STAY after the dog has been successful at the previous level for 5-10 trials.

For very long SITS, the reward should be given intermittently throughout the SIT, at least during training. The owner should teach a key phrase such as EASY or STEADY to teach the dog to associate relaxation with the exercise. It also is helpful to have a release command, such as FREE or RELEASE, which tells the dog when he has been obeying for the desired period of time.

11. Vary the commands during an individual training session – keep the training sessions short and frequent. Dogs will learn much more from regular short sessions than from longer, less frequent ones. Once the dog has learned several useful commands on the continuous reward schedule, that is, the dog is rewarded for each successful performance of the behavior, the schedule should be changed to one of intermittent reward.

Initially, the dog may be rewarded two times out of three, then every other third time, and so on until rewards are only supplied occasionally. This is the way to wean a dog off food treats and is the cure for a dog that “will only work for food.” Remember, however, it is always important to praise your dog immediately if he has performed a command properly, whether or not any other reward will be forthcoming.

12. Once training has been accomplished in a quiet area, you can gradually begin to work in environments with more distractions, continuing the training in the yard, on leash, progressively lengthening the leash between you and the dog and finally dropping it, so the dog is now obeying without you at the other end of the lead. It may be helpful to continue this training in relatively busy environments, so that you can maintain control even in distracting situations. The Holy Grail of training is to have the dog reliably obeying commands off lead, even when other things are going on around him. This level of training can be achieved but only after a lot of hard work and investment of time. It’s something to strive toward.

And remember, regarding basic dog training, “Art and science aren’t enough; Patience is the basic stuff.” (Konrad Lorenz).

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

How to Prevent Common Puppy Behavior Problems

While most new puppy owners are very good at supplying their pup with all the good things in life, such as petting, cuddling, kissing, and treats, many are often not so naturally inclined to provide the guidance and leadership that the young puppy needs.

Call it training, if you will, it is an essential component of raising a well-mannered and well-behaved dog. Sure, there are times when you can let the youngster have free reign; times when the two of you can cavort around in blissful silliness and indulgence. That’s half the fun of owning a new puppy, right? But the other side of the coin of happiness is setting limits of acceptable behavior so that the new puppy does not spiral out of control. Good puppies turn into good dogs, and puppies and dogs need us to be their leaders as well as their friends. Dogs need strong leaders.

Typical puppy problems include unacceptable behaviors such as destructive chewing, biting, or nipping, jumping up, and excessive barking. How should the hapless owner deal with such problems? The answer to this problem is universally applicable to all the behaviors described and, though simple, seems to be a hard one for some owners to grasp. It is that you should reward behaviors that you find acceptable or pleasing and ignore or redirect behaviors that you find unacceptable or annoying.

Destructive Chewing

First of all, understand that chewing is a normal behavior for young pups and may become quite intense around teething time in the 5 to 9 month age group. As such, it is extremely important for new puppy owners to provide their new pup something to chew upon.

A plethora of chew toys is available in most pet stores and these should be brought home and freely distributed for your dog’s chewing pleasure. If your puppy starts to chew on an unacceptable item, such as a chair leg or electric cord, issue a curt command, such as Out! and physically redirect it onto an acceptable item to chew (one of its chew toys).

It is appropriate to render certain items unavailable or aversive but the main thrust of your training is to teach the pup what is acceptable for it to chew. An inappropriate response to finding your pup engaged in destructive chewing and, unfortunately, one still recommended by some trainers, is to physically punish the dog for chewing what it should not.

Punishment teaches a dog nothing except how to avoid punishment. If you punish a dog for destructive chewing, it will simply chew it when you’re not around. It will learn that you are the source of punishment and will avoid punishment by avoiding chewing in front of you. Hardly an ideal solution.

Biting and Nipping

This is the problem that (excuse the pun) should be nipped in the bud. While it is okay to allow a young pup to mouth and nip fingers and hands, there comes a time when it must be taught bite inhibition. This is usually taught at around 4 or 5 months of age. The moment the puppy’s needle sharp teeth start to cause you, the owner, any discomfort or pain, immediately explain Ouch!, and withdraw your hand. That’s the end of the game and the end of the entertainment.

The puppy will soon learn that humans are soft and ouchy and only minimal pressure is necessary if they wish to discourage an unwanted intervention. The big mistake that owners make is writing off all puppy nipping as “normal puppy behavior” and failing to take any steps to curtail it until it is too late. If a young puppy is too aloof to play by mouthing encourage it to do so that you might teach it bite inhibition. It will pay off in the long run.

Another cardinal mistake owners make is to scream and flail when their new puppy nips too hard. This conveys to the puppy that you can be like a huge squeaky toy, the most entertaining thing in an otherwise dull life; so it may nip you simply for the pleasure of witnessing your response.

Another inappropriate way of dealing with nipping is by physical punishment (e.g. by slapping or hitting the pup) because this will ruin your relationship with it and may inflict damage. And, yes, there is such a thing as the shaken puppy syndrome.

Jumping Puppy

Here’s another all-too-common puppy behavior problem that is often dealt with inappropriately by owners. The first thing they fail to appreciate is that dogs only jump up because they are rewarded in some way by so doing. It may not be the owners themselves but their guests who lean down and pet the pup, giving it their attention in response to being jumped upon. This will ensure that jumping up continues.

If an owner wants an adult dog that will not jump up on them or their visitors, they should simply instruct all who meet the pup to “turn into a tree” or “turn to stone” or to simply walk away. If jumping up is not rewarded it will not be propagated.

If a dog is already jumping up because it has been rewarded for doing so and attention is suddenly withdrawn, the behavior will get worse for a few days before it gets better. This exacerbation is referred to as an extinction burst. Many owners don’t know this and so they give up too soon. It may take days or weeks for the behavior to fully extinguish.

Some puppy owners, in desperation, turn to the wrong type of dog trainer for advice on how to correct the jumping problem. Owners are taught to knee the dog in the chest, cup it under the chin, or stand on its back paws as a way of eliminating the behavior. These physical punishments are rude and wrong and, while they might produce the goods on occasion, are uncalled for and compromise your relationship with your dog. A more acceptable technique is to hold the pup by both paws and remove them from your person but do not let go until it is clear the dog is keen to be released. This is a form of negative reinforcement and the pup will increase the frequency with which it greets you with four feet on the floor in order to avoid a negative consequence of you holding onto its paws.

While an owner may ignore or negatively reinforce jumping up behavior, there is one other component of training this behavior that is frequently overlooked. That is, rewarding the behavior that you want. You should always reward your pup with praise, petting, and your attention, for greeting you with four feet on the floor. And reward it for getting four feet back on the floor after a bout of jumping. Timely reward is important if non-jumping behavior is to be maintained.

The bottom line: ignore the behavior you don’t want (jumping) and reward the behavior you do want (four feet on the floor). It’s as simple as that. If you want to add a word cue or command, the one to use is Off! Do not tell a dog that is jumping on you Down! as this is a different behavior and the utterance of this word on this occasion will simply confuse the dog. Using a non-specific word, like no, or the wrong word, like down, are common mistakes that owners make when trying to retrain a jumping dog.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Crate Training Your Puppy

You’re standing in the pet store and there they are row after row of crates, just big enough for a dog. They’re made of fiberglass or plastic or just plain open wire. For all their differences, they evoke just one thought: Jail.

Not so fast. Despite their appearance, crates can be a boon for a puppy – a home-away-from-home or a comfortable retreat for when the rest of the family gets to be too much. Also, crates are great tools for housetraining because dogs don’t like to soil their immediate environment. In addition, for car travel, inside a crate is probably the safest place for a puppy to ride, and, for pups that have to fly cargo, crates provide a touch of the familiar on the plane.

Making Pups Comfortable With the Crate

First, make sure you don’t isolate your pup when he’s in his crate. Buy two crates, and put one in your bedroom – so he can sleep beside you at night – and the other in a busier part of the house for daytime use. Line the crate with a soft blanket, put in some small treats, and then show the puppy how to get in.

Once your puppy has figured out how to go in and out of his crate, and has satisfied his curiosity about it, use a cue word – such as “kennel,” as he moves toward the crate, and hand him a treat as soon as he enters. Repeat this several times at random intervals until he goes in when he’s told to. At this point, you can shut the door for short periods, without making a big fuss about it. In fact, it’s best to ignore your pup while opening or shutting the door.

Once your puppy is willing to rest in the crate, start confining him for varying periods of time, and at different times of the day, while you’re at home. The more random and persistent you are, the less the dog will worry when you do have to leave the house. With this kind of routine, your puppy will learn to rest while crated, and that’s exactly the way you want him to feel – at home, relaxed and comfortable in his own little den.

Learning to Love the Lockup

Occasionally you may want your pup to be in his crate when he wants to be out. Don’t try to fool him, by calling him to you and then forcing him into the crate. Instead, use a command like: “Go to your crate,” and lure him in with a little food. Hand over the treat as soon as he settles down inside the crate, and praise him and keep feeding him while he’s inside. The minute he ventures out, turn off the food supply – and the charm.

Put a few pieces of kibble in the crate so the pup will develop the habit of going into the crate by himself, earning more praise and even more treats. Sooner or later, he’ll learn that he gets lots of attention, affection and goodies inside the crate – and very little in the way of treats outside the crate.

By the way, never put your pup in his crate for misbehavior “time-outs”/punishment. Using a crate in this way will render it aversive and therefore less useful as a behavioral management tool.

The Crate and House-training

To confine an untrained dog for a long time is to court disaster. If the pup is forced to soil in his crate, the crate will no longer inhibit his elimination there and will be of no help when you wish to employ it for house training.

Basically, house-training a dog is solving a spatial problem: You want to teach the dog to eliminate only in one place – outdoors. During the training period, it’s up to you to set limits. For example, if you don’t allow your pup free access to the living room and bedrooms, he can’t make a mess on the carpets there.

Because most puppies can’t control their urine and feces for extended periods, the most important part of any house-training program is setting up and sticking with a schedule that your puppy can maintain. Feed him at consistent times of the day and watch his natural schedule: Puppies usually need to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, and after playing. Young puppies may need to urinate every four hours.

When your pup eliminates in a designated area, praise and reward him immediately and play with him. People usually reward their pup for urinating outside only after they have brought him back indoors: This is a mistake because it rewards the pup for coming inside, not for eliminating outside. Instead, keep a few treats in your pocket and hand them out on the spot.

If your pup repeatedly messes inside his crate, take him to your vet to rule out medical problems, such as intestinal parasites and urinary-tract diseases.

If you need to be away from home for a few hours, hire a dog walker to take the puppy out, or enclose your pup in a large pen to provide him with an opportunity to eliminate away from his resting spot. Leave newspaper or training pads down in one area when you are gone – but pick them up once when you’re home.

Punishment after the fact doesn’t work. If an “accident” happens, clean it up with a good enzymatic cleaner and blame yourself: You’re the one who wasn’t supervising the pup at the time the “accident” occurred. If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating indoors, make a loud noise to distract him, and then take him outside right away.

Dogs with separation anxiety will often urinate, defecate, or bark when confined. In fact, some dogs become so anxious when confined that they destroy their crates and hurt themselves in the process. These dogs may do better when confined in a larger area, but if the problem still persists, see your vet or check with a veterinary behaviorist.

Picking a Crate

Crates come in different styles and sizes. Prices range from about $75 to $175. A comfortable crate should be about twice the size of your pup. The most common types are the pressed fiberglass models favored by airlines and the open-wire cages that are available at most pet stores. Fiberglass kennels are the most sturdy and the safest for traveling in a car or airplane.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

12 General Dog Training Tips

 Dog Obedience Training

1. Training should be an enjoyable experience for you and your dog. If you are not in the right mood for training, don’t even start. Keep training sessions short, on the order of 5-10 minutes, to maintain your dog’s motivation.

If your dog doesn’t respond appropriately to a command after several attempts, don’t reward him. Resume training a few seconds later using a simpler command. Return to the more complex task later.

Always end training on a positive note. Ask your dog to respond to a command you know he will obey. Then reward him for a job well done and issue a finish command such as “free” or “release.” Avoid common words such as “okay.” Following a training session, both owner and dog should be left with a feeling of accomplishment.

2. Every dog should be familiar with the basic obedience commands, includingcome, heel, sit, down and stay. Teaching your dog to sit-stay and down-stay off leash is also a valuable lesson. Additional commands that are useful include: leave it, give it, stop it, and enough or cease.

Keep in mind that a dog’s motivation to respond to a command decreases as the complexity of the task increases. The odds of success, hinge not only on the degree of sophistication of the task but also your dog’s motivation to respond. From a dog’s perspective the question is, which is more rewarding, chasing the squirrel or returning to the owner? Understanding this aspect will increase your patience and chances for success.

3. Training should not involve any negative or punishment-based components. There should be no yelling, no hitting, no chain jerking, no hanging, and absolutely no electric shock. Each session should be upbeat and positive with rewards for jobs well done.

Remember that the opposite of reward is not punishment; it is no reward. If you ignore unacceptable responses, your dog will not be rewarded for his failed response. Most dogs want to please their owners or, at the very least, to obtain highly valued resources (food, attention and toys).

4. Ensure that your dog’s motivation for reward is highest during a training session. If food is the reward, train before a meal, not after. If praise, petting and other aspects of your attention are to be used as a reward, schedule the training session at a time when your dog hungers for your attention (for example, after you have returned from work).

For complex tasks, such as the off leash down-stay, your dog will be more motivated to comply if he has received moderate exercise before the training session. Asking a dog that is bursting with energy to remain in a prolonged reclining position is asking for failure during the early stages of training.

5. Make sure the reward you offer in training is the most powerful one for your dog. Food-motivated dogs work well for food, but the treats used should be favorite foods for the dog, such as small pieces of cheese or freeze-dried liver. You want your dog to be strongly motivated to obey commands to receive the treat.

Food treats, if used, should be small – no bigger than the size of your little fingernail. The texture of the treat should be such that it does not require chewing and should not crumble, otherwise you will lose your dog’s attention as he Hoovers up the crumbs. Large treats, like Milk Bones®, take too long to eat, causing the dog to lose attention.

If praise is used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Also, enthusiasm in your voice will be much appreciated. If petting is to be used as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog’s hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows, or scratching him on the chest. Note: Petting on top of the head is not appreciated by most dogs.

6. Timing of the reward is important. After a correct response, reward your dog within ½ second of the command to ensure that your dog makes the connection between his behavior and the reward.

7. Use short commands such as sit, down, leave it, quiet, out, and off. Say the word once. Do not repeat the command. Dogs will remember a command for about two minutes before the notion is lost. Shorter words are better than longer words and words that end in a hard consonant (C, K, T, X) are better than those that end in a vowel because you can “spit” them out.

The only command that should have three sounds associated with it is come. In this case, you first have to attract the dog’s attention by saying his name, ROVER, then COME (the actual command word) and GOOD BOY, even before the dog comes so that he knows he is not in trouble. Make sure your tone is crisp and cheerful.

8. Put your dog on a leash and attract his attention so he looks directly at you and you at him (“Watch-me”). Then issue an action word, SIT. A poorly trained dog might slowly get into the sitting position, at which point you reward him IMMEDIATELY with praise, GOOD BOY, ROVER, (remember the high tones and heartfelt deliverance) and at the same time as you immediately produce the reward.

An untrained dog will have to be assisted into the sitting position by moving a food treat over and above his head so that he has to sit to reach it. Successful accomplishment of the task is meets with warm praise and the food treat. In some cases, placement techniques (tension on collar, downward pressure on the rump) may have to be used.

9. Once you have a dog performing the desired response greater than 85 percent of the time in a quiet undisturbed environment, you can move onto the next stage; starting to shape the behavior toward the ideal response. You might begin by rewarding a progressively faster SIT, that is, rewarding the dog for sitting in 3 seconds, later in 2 seconds, and ultimately in 1 second, or immediately.

Decide before you give the command what you are going to reward. You can also start to reward longer and more definite SITS so the dog has to do more than just touch his rear end on the ground to receive reward. Withhold the foodtreat until the dog is sitting properly and then gradually introduce a time delay before the reward is given.

10. Gradually increase the length of time the dog must remain in a SIT-STAYuntil he can remain relaxed in this position for one minute while the owner is at a distance of 5 feet. Continue to increase the time and distance the dog is asked to remain in a SIT-STAY after the dog has been successful at the previous level for 5-10 trials.

For very long SITS, the reward should be given intermittently throughout the SIT, at least during training. The owner should teach a key phrase such as EASY or STEADY to teach the dog to associate relaxation with the exercise. It also is helpful to have a release command, such as FREE or RELEASE, which tells the dog when he has been obeying for the desired period of time.

11. Vary the commands during an individual training session – keep the training sessions short and frequent. Dogs will learn much more from regular short sessions than from longer, less frequent ones. Once the dog has learned several useful commands on the continuous reward schedule, that is, the dog is rewarded for each successful performance of the behavior, the schedule should be changed to one of intermittent reward.

Initially, the dog may be rewarded two times out of three, then every other third time, and so on until rewards are only supplied occasionally. This is the way to wean a dog off food treats and is the cure for a dog that “will only work for food.” Remember, however, it is always important to praise your dog immediately if he has performed a command properly, whether or not any other reward will be forthcoming.

12. Once training has been accomplished in a quiet area, you can gradually begin to work in environments with more distractions, continuing the training in the yard, on leash, progressively lengthening the leash between you and the dog and finally dropping it, so the dog is now obeying without you at the other end of the lead. It may be helpful to continue this training in relatively busy environments, so that you can maintain control even in distracting situations. The Holy Grail of training is to have the dog reliably obeying commands off lead, even when other things are going on around him. This level of training can be achieved but only after a lot of hard work and investment of time. It’s something to strive toward.

And remember, regarding training, “Art and science aren’t enough; Patience is the basic stuff.” (Konrad Lorenz).

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Canine Training and Behavior

For centuries, dogs have been valued for their roles of alarm-sounder and guardian, as well as for their hunting and herding skills. But owners do view all behaviors that their dogs engage as desirable. Sometimes dogs are aggressive, or urinate or defecate in inappropriate places; and sometimes they bark when it is not called for or steal things from the countertops. Long before the days of behavioral psychology, dog owners intuitively knew that rewarding a desired behavior and punishing an unwanted one would eventually encourage a dog to conform more closely to its owner’s wishes and expectations. Those simple tenets now constitute the basic premise underlying any form of dog training.

Canine Training: Trainers and Their Methods

Some people seem to possess a natural affinity for training. Perhaps because of some innate gift of timing (of reward and punishment), perhaps through tone of voice or body language, or perhaps through some uncanny ability to know what the dog is thinking, these individuals can train a dog faster and better than most regular mortals. Trainers, whose unique abilities transcend species, are themselves a breed apart.

There are two completely different schools of thought for training dogs. One is referred to as “gentlemen’s training” and the other as “ladies training”; both are “canine training”.

In the past, for gentlemen wishing to train sporting dogs, the approach was more physical and coercive, entailing a significant amount of correction (punishment) for commands not followed. Punishment, though interspersed with praise, was nevertheless instrumental in the technique.

Ladies training, however, presumably for lap dogs and other purely companion dogs, entailed none of such brutish behavior and was based almost exclusively on what is now known as positive reinforcement (that is, reward-based training).

The Evolution of Training Techniques

During World War II, with the need to train service dogs a high priority, the U.S. Army co-opted military-style trainers (of the coercive variety) to train the dogs of war. The training used, while effective, was not for the faint-hearted and caused irreparable damage to some of the dogs. Postwar, these trainers became dispersed among the community, teaching owners to train their dogs using the only methods they knew, as they schooled another generation of same-style trainers. Though softened for the general public, coercive training, based upon dominating the dog physically by means of timely jerks or “corrections” applied to the dog’s collar, became accepted as “the norm” of dog training for the next 40 years or so.

While all this was going on “ladies training” was slowly simmering on the back burner, employed by only very few trainers. In fact, this reward-based or “positive” training was slandered by choke chain aficionados who failed to appreciate reward-based training as anything other than a starting step. Referring to positive training as food training (which it largely was), conventional trainers dismissed its effectiveness, saying that dogs so trained would only respond while the owner was offering food.

This is untrue, but the mantra became widely accepted and training dogs with food treats and other rewards was largely restricted to the training of very young puppies. Positive training methods never really did take off until “Click & Treat Training” found its way onto the scene.

Click & Treat Training

Click-and-treat training is not new. Discovered many years ago by psychologists, Breland and Breland, “clicker training” faded into obscurity for the best part of a century before being rediscovered by dolphin trainers who, for underwater acoustic reasons, often used a whistle rather than a clicker. As anyone who has been to a dolphin show will know, the tasks that dolphins perform during shows are complex, and they are executed with a high degree of accuracy. Look around the next time you go to such a show and you will not see a choke chain in sight.

That a task has been completed successfully is signaled by means of a whistle, (“secondary reinforcer”) and then the real reward, a piece of fish, can be delivered a short while later. The dolphin knows from the sound of the whistle that it has performed the task correctly and will return to the trainer to receive his reward.

Click and treat training radiated from dolphins to zoo animals and finally, through the work of a handful of pioneer trainers, to dogs. The reinvention of clicker training has revolutionized current dog training methods and is the training technique of choice for many dog trainers and dog training associations today. The beauty of clicker training is that it is fun for both the owner and the dog, and is eminently acceptable to owners.

To make positive reinforcement techniques, including clicker training, more reliably effective, neither the click nor the real reward is necessary every time the dog succeeds. Rather these rewards can eventually be supplied on an intermittent basis, which makes the dog will work even harder to earn the reward.

While the struggle for supremacy between coercive trainers and “total positive” (reward-based) trainers continues, with the latter group slowly gaining momentum, a separate controversy has emerged. That of trainingversus clinical behaviorism.

Training involves training a dog to respond to audible commands and hand signals. It is, for a dog, like going to school to learn language, in this case, English as a second language, and obedience. Behaviorism, however, is based on fundamental psychological research and the study of dogs in the wild (ethology). It involves something more than training and is akin to human psychological counseling. Behaviorists attempt to understand a dog’s unwanted behavior, recognizing atypical or aberrant behavior, and employing techniques ranging from environmental modification and programmatic shaping of behavior to address behavior problems. In addition, veterinary behaviorists address underlying medical concerns and may prescribe mood and behavior-modifying drugs.

Trainers and behaviorists rely on principles and techniques that cross each others’ domains, but there are fundamental differences, too. While trainers may make good teachers and family counselors, behaviorists are best suited to unraveling complex problems and modifying unwanted behavior.

Even if no behavior problems existed, training would still be necessary. Dogs, like children, need to learn how to behave in human society in order to be socially acceptable. To have dogs running rampant is unacceptable, and proper training is what is required to teach the dog acceptable alternative behaviors.

Acquiring the right interspecies communication skills is an important part of training and is necessary to secure the rudiments of an appropriate human-animal bond. Most of the problems in dogs are the result of poor training. The trainer’s function is to provide such instruction to assist in the healthy behavioral development of pups and juvenile dogs and to teach owners how to train their older dogs to perform new behaviors. (And yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks).

If every dog was genetically sound and his owners followed through with the instructions of a knowledgeable trainer, there would be no behavior problems to plague us, but unfortunately this utopian situation does not exist. Instead, dogs are too often bred for the wrong reasons, acquired for the wrong reasons, are raised inappropriately and are untrained.

Despite a few hundred years of selective breeding of dogs and at least a hundred years of “modern” dog training, the leading cause of death in dogs is still behavior problems that owners erroneously believe to be irresolvable. To be a little more specific, the number of dogs dying as a result of behavior problems is approximately three times the number that die from cancer, and half the dogs in the United States do not see their second birthday for the behavioral reasons.

Fortunately the American Veterinary Medical Association has seen fit to accredit a college of Veterinary Behaviorists. This new college will provide board certified veterinary experts to help train the veterinarians of the future and, through continuing education, to educate the ones of the present. This should help ease the problem considerably. Also, the Animal behavior Society of the United States now certifies Applied Animal Behaviorists, all members having a further (research) degree, and many of whom pitch in to help deal with this major league problem. Behaviorists spend most of their working time trying to resolve behavior problems in dogs using a Sherlock Holmes-like approach. It requires taking a detailed history, making a diagnosis of the problem, and establishing whether the behavior is a normal behavior or a truly abnormal behavior.

The behaviorist then employs all measures likely to help resolve the problem for the owner and the dog. Fortunately, in many cases, many of the formerly unmanageable problems are now resolvable, though different problems respond somewhat differently to the various therapeutic interventions.

The Bottom Line

Dog trainers may snipe at behaviorists as being a white-coated brigade who sit behind desks and do a lot of talking, handing out instruction pamphlets without actually touching the dog, and behaviorists may look down on trainers as less well educated, poorly grounded counterparts. The fact is that both groups need to work together to resolve the multitudinous problems facing today’s pets and their owners. Rather than a territorial approach, it would be more effective for the groups to work together towards a common goal of improving the lot of pet animals and strengthening the human-companion animal bond.

To use an analogy of the human medical system, which has in its ranks the family counselors, the psychologists, and the psychiatrists. Family counselors address domestic problems and train us to communicate and live together harmoniously. The canine therapy equivalent could be the dog trainers.

Psychologists advise us when we have seriously detrimental behaviors that are self-destructive or problematic for others. The equivalent here would be the certified applied animal behaviorists.

Finally, in human behavioral management, there are the psychiatrists, who deal with chemical imbalance situations and medically related behavior problems that may require medication. The only group qualified to intervene at this level, regarding canine behavior problems, are the veterinary behaviorists.

All puppies need to be trained otherwise there will be behavior problems for the owners, at least. All the behavior problems need to be and can usually be addressed by either a trainer, certified applied animal behaviorist, or veterinary behaviorist, depending on the level of the disturbance. Hopefully, these latter expert groups will combine their forces and refer one to another, to solve the massive problem now facing the pet dog population and the many devoted dog owners.

  Dr. Nicholas Dodman

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372