Monthly Archives: March 2016

Cats, Diet, Dogs

Human-Grade Dog Food Is Better for Pets Than Animal-Grade Foods – Part 2

As you know, if you are a regular reader, my dog Cardiff is thriving despite being under long-term chemotherapy for his second emergence of T-Cell Lymphoma.

I generally see that my patients who eat whole-food diets throughout their lives have fewer health problems. Additionally, my patients who consume whole-food diets that are undergoing chemotherapy, including Cardiff, often digestively tolerate treatments with cancer-killing chemicals better than those eating processed pet foods like kibble and most canned options. This means an improved appetite with less vomiting and diarrhea, which lends to the owner’s perspective that chemotherapy isn’t negatively impacting a pet’s quality of life.

Now that you’ve read Part 1 of this article (see Processed Food vs. Whole Food for Pet Cancer Patients — What’s Better?), we can continue on to Part 2 of my holistic veterinary perspective on this topic.

What’s the Differences Between Processed vs Whole Food Dog Diet?

Commercially-available kibble and many canned pet diets undergo significant processing to achieve the final product and are thereby considered processed foods. Processed pet foods contain fractionated ingredients, like meat and grain “meals and by-products,” which either don’t exist in nature or are radically changed from the form nature created.

Conversely, whole foods appear identical or very similar to their natural form. Whole foods contain vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins, and fats that are best assimilated when consumed in combination. By breaking nutrients apart (fractionating), foods’ synergistic qualities can be lost, and the co-factors essential for digestion may be lacking, which can lead to poor absorption of nutrients and digestive tract upset (inappetence, vomit, diarrhea, etc.).

Synthetic vitamins may not be efficiently absorbed due to improper binding with receptors inside the digestive tract (see visual examples in Good Food/Bad Food: A Little Book of Common Sense Nutrition). Additionally, the body may recognize synthetic vitamins as foreign and eliminate them in a process that creates more free radicals and further stresses internal organs.

Natural, whole-food vitamins are generally better absorbed as a result of improved binding with receptors inside the digestive tract.

Are There Other Toxins Besides Mycotoxin That Can Potentially Be Found in Processed Foods?

Yes, there are a variety of toxins besides mycotoxin that can end up on pet foods, both dry and moist. Some of the things to keep an eye out for are chemical preservatives, artificial colors, and moistening agents, including:

1. Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)

BHA and BHT are chemical preservatives added to oils (fats) that can be found in pet foods and treats.

BHA is included in California’s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment list of Known Carcinogens and Reproductive Toxicants. The National Institute of Health reports that “dietary exposure to BHA caused benign and malignant tumors of the forestomach (papilloma and squamous-cell carcinoma) in rats of both sexes and in male mice and hamsters (IARC 1986, Masui et al. 1986)”.

BHT also a known carcinogen and causes kidney and liver damage in rats and has been banned as a human-food preservative in Australia, Japan, Romania, and Sweden. Yet, BHT has not been banned for people or pets in the United States.

My recommendation is that your pet’s food and treats contain either no preservatives or natural options like Vitamins C and E instead of chemical preservatives like BHA or BHT.

2. Ethoxyquin

Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative which is illegal to use in human foods in the United States, yet it can still legally be added to our companion animals’ meals to prevent fat spoilage. Human safety data reports Ethoxyquin to be harmful when swallowed or when it comes into direct contact with skin.

Ethoxyquin can enter your pet’s food or treats in protein “meals,” such as fish meal. Manufacturers have to disclose that a toxin like Ethoxyquin has been added during the final production process. But if Ethoxyquin arrives at the final manufacturing site and is present in fish meal, then the manufacturer doesn’t have to disclose such information on the product label. Therefore, you may not even know that you are feeding Ethoxyquin to your pet, even after you have throughly read the label.

Such is why I suggest not feeding our pets diets that include protein or grain “meals” or “by products,” and instead focusing on fresh, whole-food protein sources that lack chemical preservatives.

3. Carageenan

Carageenan is an ingredient found in canned pet foods; it is used to maintain consistency and moisture.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IRAC) reports that “sufficient evidence for the carcinogenicity of degraded carrageenan in animals to regard it as posing a carcinogenic risk to humans” exists.

As a result, it’s best to scrutinize your pet’s food and treat labels to ensure no carageenan enters the mouths of your canine or feline companions.

4. Food Dyes

Pets do not care about the color of their food. When approaching the bowl or plate, pets are instinctually drawn to food’s aroma. If the aroma is appealing, then a taste will be taken and a food’s flavor will keep the pet consuming that portion and coming back for more. Artificially coloring pet food just appeals to the pet owners who generally gravitate towards commercially-available, processed pet foods that simulate nature’s creations.

In humans, Blue 2, Red 40, and Yellow 5 and 6 contribute to hypersensitivity (allergic-type) reactions, behavior problems, and cancer. Caramel color contains 4-methylimidazole (4-MIE), a known animal carcinogen.

I recommend my patients don’t consume any foods or treats containing dyes. Instead, let nature provide the color and focus on the food’s aroma and flavor to appeal to your pet.

5. Meat and Bone Meal

Meat and bone meal can contain pentobarbital, a barbiturate anesthetic used to euthanize animals (confirmed through FDA testing of dog foods in 1998 and 2000). Additionally, meat and bone meal is one of the pet-food ingredients having a higher likelihood to contain heavy metals.

According to the Truth About Pet Food, ingredients listed as “meat and bone meal” could also be listed as “animal protein products (collective term), meat meal (if minerals are lower), by-product meal (if it doesn’t meet constraints of MBM), meat & bone meal tankage (if blood is added back in).”

Avoid feeding your pet any products having meat and bone meal, or any of its versions having alternative names.

6. Propylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol (PG) is a humectant (moistening agent) found in certain soft dog treats (simulated meat versions) and dry dog foods having a crumbly texture.

PG is a chemical derivative of ethylene glycol (EG = antifreeze), which only requires small volumes to be consumed to cause life-threatening toxicity by damaging the kidneys. The “pet safe” antifreeze (Sierra, etc.) you may choose to put in your car is made from PG.

PG is touted to be non-toxic, tasteless, and non-absorbed by your dog, therefore it has a much higher margin for safety than EG. PG was previously used in moist and canned cat foods, but cats suffer toxic effects from PG consumption, like Heinz body anemia. As a result, the FDA banned PG’s inclusion in feline products.

Although PG is reported to be safe for your pet to eat, frequent ingestion of foods and treats having PG won’t improve your pet’s overall health. Just have your pet’s food be moist as a result of the inherent water content or by adding your own filtered water, low-sodium broth, or other safe and natural hydration source.

Human-grade foods are less likely than feed-grade diets and treats to contain the above toxins that can be especially harmful for patients with cancer who may already have compromised digestive health as a result of their illness or as a side effect of treatment. Make sure to choose human-grade options for your pets during both times of wellness and illness.

Additionally, make it a part of your routine to reference the list of pet products that haven been recalled via FDA Recalls & Withdrawals.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

 

Cancer, Health, Pets

Processed Food vs. Whole Food for Pet Cancer Patients — What’s Better? Part 1

When a pet is diagnosed with cancer, a series of life-changing events occur. The pet is potentially faced with a treatment protocol involving surgery, chemotherapy, radiation, or some combination of the three on a short or long-term basis. The owner is faced with the uncertainty of not knowing how long the beloved pet will live, in addition to the financial and time-management aspects of managing the pet cancer.

The process of getting a pet’s cancer treated involves many factors that come into play. As I work alongside veterinary oncologists providing chemotherapy or radiation to treat canine and feline cancers, I’ve observed that often the conversation about how to nutritionally support the body to best handle the prescribed treatment may not be part of the initial treatment conversation.

Diet For Dogs With Cancer

Yet, the “you are what you eat” perspective especially applies to cancer patients. The treatments used to manage the disease, or the cancer itself, can affect a pet’s appetite and ability to digest food and absorb nutrients. This is why owners must be proactive in ensuring that the meals entering their pets’ mouths contain ingredients that are highly bioavailable (easily absorbed) so that the nutrients can be readily utilized to fight cancer’s effects, reduce inflammation, resolve infection, and manage other ailments.

My own dog, Cardiff, exclusively eats a whole-food based diet and treats (The Honest Kitchen, Lucky Dog Cuisine, and human foods), and has since he was a puppy. So, even though I took all measures to prevent him from consuming foods and treats that are known to have toxins or are known to be carcinogenic, his body had other ideas and he still developed cancer.

Yet, I generally see that my patients who eat whole-food diets throughout their lives have fewer health problems. Additionally, my patients undergoing chemotherapy, including Cardiff, typically tolerate chemotherapy better than those eating processed pet foods.

Here in part 1 of 2, I will be sharing my perspective on this topic.

What Are the Differences Between Processed and Whole Foods?

Commercially-available kibble and many canned pet diets undergo significant processing to achieve the final product and are thereby considered processed foods. Processed foods contain fractionated ingredients (a process that separates the components of whole foods into smaller parts), like meat and grain “meals and by-products,” which either don’t exist in nature or are radically changed from what nature created.

Conversely, whole foods appear identical or very similar to their natural form. Whole foods contain vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, and proteins that all work best when consumed together. By breaking nutrients apart, the synergistic qualities of whole foods can be lost. Co-factors essential for digestion may be lacking and can lead to poor absorption of nutrients and digestive tract upset (inappetence, vomit, diarrhea, flatulence, etc.).

Synthetic vitamins may not be efficiently absorbed as compared to natural vitamins existing in whole foods due to improper binding with receptors inside the digestive tract (see visual examples in Good Food/Bad Food: A Little Book of Common Sense Nutrition). Additionally, the body may identify synthetic vitamins as foreign and eliminate them in a process that creates free radicals that are harmful to internal organs.

Natural, whole-food vitamins are generally better absorbed as a result of improved binding with digestive tract receptors, and are not eliminated in a manner that creates additional stress on the body like their synthetic counterparts.

Is Kibble Considered Whole Food?

No, kibble is not considered to be whole food. Even from a visual perspective, which is what drives many owners to feed particular types of food or treats to their pets, kibble doesn’t lend a natural appearance.

Kibble is produced through a moisture-depleting cooking process called extrusion, which requires the body’s gastric acid and pancreatic enzymes, or an external water source, to facilitate digestion. Extrusion also denatures proteins and deactivates enzymes that are essential to the digestive process.

After being high-heat cooked, kibble is sprayed with rendered fat to improve its taste and is also often artificially colored (caramel coloring, etc.).

Kibble is often associated with gastric dilatation volvulus (GDV or “bloat”) in dogs, and vomiting in cats.

Many types of kibble, and some canned foods and treats, have caramel color added to make them appear more like real meat. When it comes down to it, dogs and cats don’t care about the color of their food. The aroma and flavor, yes; the color is added to satisfy humans.

According to information I received while on a media tour at a major pet food brand that produces many types of kibble, studies showed that pet owners responded better to kibble that included caramel color to make it look meatier.

But caramel color has come under fire as a toxic food additive, as it contains 4-methylimidazole (4-MIE), a known animal carcinogen. Studies have found that long-term exposure to 4-methylimidazole (4-MIE) caused lung cancer in mice, so it’s been added to California’s list of Chemicals Known to the State to Cause Cancer or Reproductive Toxicity.

So, by choosing to feed a their pets a diet with ingredients that have been radically modified from nature’s version and added color to replicate real meat, owners may be unknowingly predisposing their beloved canine and feline companions to develop cancer. Considering most pets eat the same 4-MIE-containing foods for morning and evening meals on a daily basis, we’re continually showering their internal organs with a carcinogenic substance that could otherwise be avoided if whole food options were fed instead.

If you haven’t already done so, it’s time to move away from kibble to fresh, moist, whole foods.

Are Canned Foods Considered to Be Whole Foods?

Canned or moist food has water as the primary ingredient and often appears closer to a whole-food format. Some even have real pieces of meat, vegetables, fruit, and whole grains. Such options are better choices for pet owners seeking to feed a whole-food diet than canned foods that appear smooth and “pate-like” without discernible chunks of whole-food ingredients.

Yet, some canned foods appear to have chunks simulating meat but which are actually conglomerations of meat and/or meat and grain “meals and by-products” that appear different from real meat when examined in cross section (after cutting in into the piece). So, make sure to use a discerning eye when comparing canned food options to make sure your pet consistently eats canned diets that are whole-food based.

Unfortunately, many canned or moist foods are congealed or have a glistened appearance; this is due to stabilizing agents like guar gum, xanthan gum, or carrageenan.

Guar gum has its origins in ground guar beans and is a polysaccharide (complex carbohydrate). Let’s Take Back Your Health-Starting Now reports that guar gum actually has some health benefits, as rodent studies showed “reduced body weight and lower blood glucose, even with guar gum making up 15% of the diet.”

Yet, 15 percent of the diet is “over 100 times the FDA Acceptable Daily Intake” for humans and is something I don’t recommend you provide for your pets. Guar gum is linked to digestive tract upset, including soft stools and gas-related bloating.

Xanthan gum is also a polysaccharide—the product of fermentation by Xanthomonas campestris bacterium. Fortunately, xanthan gum hasn’t been correlated with cancer. However, xanthan gum is reputed to be indigestible and, as with Guar gum, animals with digestive tract sensitivities can experience vomiting or diarrhea after eating xanthan gum-infused diets.

Carrageenan is derived from red algae and is another polysaccharide. TheInternational Agency for Research on Cancer (IRAC) has reported “sufficient evidence for the carcinogenicity of degraded carrageenan in animals to regard it as posing a carcinogenic risk to humans.” Like Guar and Xanthan Gum it is also correlated with digestive tract upset.

If you were making home-prepared pet food, you would not add guar gum, xanthan gum, nor carageenan to make the food smooth and shiny. You’d just use basic, whole-food ingredients, perhaps slightly warm the food to release aroma, and then feed it to your pet.

Feeding fresh, moist, human-grade meals during times of illness and wellness is my recommendation.

Make sure to check back for Part 2 of this article where I delve further into whole food feeding for cancer patients.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

 

Health, Pets, Rabies

New Rabies Guidelines Published

Do you think rabies has nothing to do with you and your dog or cat? You’re wrong. While the disease itself is now (thankfully) quite rare in people and pets in the United States, it is still extremely important.  Some facts about the rabies.

A new edition of the Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control has just been released and it contains some updated recommendations with regards to protocols to be followed when a pet bites a person or when a pet is bitten by a rabid or potentially rabid animal. To paraphrase:

Regardless of rabies vaccination status, a healthy dog or cat that bites a person should be confined and observed daily for symptoms consistent with rabies infection for 10 days from the time of the exposure.

Dogs and cats that have never been vaccinated and are exposed to a rabid animal should be euthanized immediately. If the owner is unwilling to have this done, the animal should receive a rabies vaccination and be placed in strict isolation for 4 months. Isolation in this context refers to confinement in an enclosure that precludes direct contact with people and other animals.

Dogs and cats that are overdue for a booster vaccination and without appropriate documentation of having received a USDA-licensed rabies vaccine at least once previously should be treated as an unvaccinated individual (see above). Alternatively, the dog or cat can undergo serologic monitoring for a response to rabies vaccination that indicates the animal has been previously vaccinated. If serology indicates no previous vaccination, the dog or cat should be treated as an unvaccinated individual (see above). If serology provides evidence for a previous rabies vaccination, the dog or cat can be treated as an overdue but previously vaccinated individual (see below).

Dogs and cats that are overdue for a booster vaccination and that have appropriate documentation of having received a USDA-licensed rabies vaccine at least once previously should receive a booster rabies vaccination and be kept under the owner’s control and observed for 45 days.

Dogs and cats that are current on rabies vaccination should receive a booster rabies vaccination and be kept under the owner’s control and observed for 45 days.

The Compendium holds a lot of sway, but it is not the definitive word on what happens to a dog or cat after biting a person or after exposure to a rabid animal. Those decisions are made and enforced at the state and local levels. A new website under development, RabiesAware.org, will provide owners and veterinarians with a lot of good information, like state-specific answers to the following “frequently asked questions” about rabies:

Which species are required to be vaccinated against rabies?

Who is legally authorized to administer a rabies vaccine?

What are the medical record requirements for rabies vaccination?

What are the age requirements for rabies vaccination?

Following the initial rabies dose, when is an animal legally immunized?

What are the state importation requirements for rabies vaccination?

Can a 3-year rabies vaccine be substituted for a 1-year vaccine?

“Overdue” for rabies vaccine booster…

Can a rabies antibody titer be used to establish “immunity?”

What constitutes rabies “exposure” in a pet?

What are the consequences of rabies “exposure” in a pet?

What are the consequence for a pet that bites a human?

Can a veterinarian exempt rabies vaccination requirements?

At what age can rabies vaccination be discontinued?

Is rabies vaccination of hybrid species recognized or allowed?

Dr. Jennifer Coates

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Dogs

Why Won’t My Dog Eat?

Why Won�t My Dog Eat His Food?

What to Do About Picky Dog Eaters

Why Won’t My Dog Eat?

Most dogs will eat anything and everything without a moment’s hesitation. On the other hand, there are a few dogs who just don’t show that much enthusiasm for food when it’s put in front of them. It can be concerning when your dog doesn’t show interest in his food, turns his nose up, and walks away. Here are a few reasons why this might happen and what to do to help your dog get the nutrition he needs to maintain health.

Make Sure Your Dog is Healthy

The first thing you need to avoid saying “my dog won’t eat” is to make sure of is that your dog is in good general health. If your dog has always been a good eater and suddenly develops a diminished appetite, this is something to be concerned about immediately. If he has lost weight recently or develops vomiting or diarrhea as well, it is time to make a visit to the veterinarian.

Problems with teeth and/or problems in the mouth can make eating difficult for even the hungriest of dogs. Check the mouth for sores, growths, bad teeth or foreign objects that might be causing pain or discomfort for your dog. This would be another cause to visit the veterinarian for an examination. Once any problems have been diagnosed and treated, your dog’s appetite should return quickly.

Dog Food Preferences and Bad Habits

If health problems are not an issue, you might need to consider that your dog has acquired some bad habits. Feeding your dog extra treats during the day that are tastier and more interesting than his normal dry diet can cause a finicky appetite to develop over time. If there are many people in the household that like to give your dog extra treats or are slipping table scraps to him, it can lead to some serious issues, including obesity.

In cases of excessive table scrap feeding, some dogs will tend to hold out until they are given something that just tastes better than dry dog food. Here is where you need to make some changes and stop reinforcing the bad behavior. Table scraps and excessive treats only cause weight gain and don’t provide balanced nutrition. Your dog needs to eat nutritionally-balanced food in proper amounts every day to maintain health. So, in this case, making changes is vital.

Stop feeding extra foods and treats and stick to a daily scheduled feeding routine. Put down the proper amount of food at a regular time each day and wait. If your dog won’t eat the food, try again the next day. It won’t hurt for a day or two to go by without him eating, as long as he’s in good health and not a very young animal (or diabetic). This will help encourage his appetite for his dog food, and after a short while he should learn that this food is the only food he will be getting every day.

Dog Food Choices and Feeding Methods

Check the dog food you are offering to make sure it’s not spoiled or out of date. This may be a reason why your dog suddenly doesn’t want to eat his food. Make sure the food you are offering is safe, nutritious, and consistent. Don’t keep changing the food constantly because this can upset your dog’s digestive system. If you do want to try a different flavor or dog food brand, make the switch gradually and mix some of the old food with the new food over time until he is only eating all new food. A new flavor might just be enough to stimulate appetite.

If your dog won’t eat dry dog food no matter what, there are a few tricks to try that might entice him to eat. You can try another brand or flavor of food that might taste better. Mixing in a tablespoon or two of canned food to dry kibbles may provide a flavor boost. Canned food can be warmed slightly in the microwave, or warm water or chicken broth can be spooned over dry food to give it some warmth and extra aroma.

Taking your dog for a good walk before mealtime can also help increase his appetite. If you can schedule a daily walk around a regular feeding time, this will help your dog to associate the walk with the upcoming mealtime.

Stay Positive and Patient If Your Dog Not Eating Food

Your dog may be responding to your behavioral cues during mealtimes. Or he may be enjoying the attention given when he doesn’t eat his food, reinforcing the bad behavior. By keeping feeding time positive, the overall experience will also provide positive reinforcement for your dog. Praise your dog when he eats his food, and give him attention only after the meal is gone.

Staying out of the area while your dog eats and giving him a quiet, safe place to eat alone, away from distractions or competition from other pets, may be helpful. Offer his food for a short period of time and then take it away. This will teach your dog to eat at certain regular times and will provide a comforting routine that the dog can rely on.

Above all, be patient with your dog and watch him closely for signs of illness. Work with your veterinarian or a dog behaviorist if you are concerned about his health. Time, self-discipline and consistency will do much to cure a finicky eater. Eventually “my dog won’t eat” will become a thing of the past!     by Jennifer Kvamme

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Animals, Diseases

Top 10 Ways to Reduce Zoonotic Diseases

Ways to Keep You and Your Family Safe from Zoonosis

What is a zoonotic disease?

Zoonotic diseases are diseases transmitted from animals to humans. Zoonotic diseases come in the form of bacteria, viruses, fungus, or parasites. There are over 250 zoonotic organisms, with only about 40 being transmitted from dogs and cats. The rest of the zoonotic organisms are transmitted from birds, reptiles, farm animals, wildlife, and other mammals. The good news is that a majority of zoonotic diseases can be prevented by following basic hygiene guidelines, as well as following routine veterinary care guidelines for your pet. The following is a list of the top ten ways you can reduce the risk of zoonotic diseases.

1. Wash your hands. This may sound like a simple thing to do, but the truth is, many people do not wash their hands when they should, or they do not wash for long enough. A quick rinse under the tap is far from adequate. Use soap and a constant stream of water, scrubbing for a minimum of 20 seconds. Have your kids sing the alphabet song for a good measure of scrubbing time. Wash hands before eating, after touching animals (particularly farm, petting zoo, or exotic species), after removing soiled clothing, after contact with soil, and after using the bathroom. Hand sanitizer is good at reducing the number of bacteria, but is inadequate for removing organic debris, which is where bacteria, viruses, fungi, or parasites can hide.

2. Manage the feces. Scoop the litterbox at least every 24 hours. There are particular organisms, including Toxoplasma gondii, which are shed in cat feces that do not become infective until after 24 hours. The same is true for various parasites found in dog feces. By scooping the litterbox or cleaning the yard daily, you are greatly reducing the number of parasites available for reinfection.

3. Avoid contact with wild animals. Wild animals, even cute baby bunnies, can carry several contagious organisms, yet seemingly appear to be healthy. Wild animals are just that, wild.

4. Have your bird tested for Psittacosis. Pet birds can carry an organism called Chlamydophila psittaci, also known as Psittacosis. This bacterium is shed in feces,ocular secretions, and nasal secretions of birds. Infection in people can be very serious.

5. Cover the sandbox. Stray or outdoor cats view your sandbox as a luxury sized litterbox. By keeping it covered when not in use, you are preventing cats from eliminating in the sand, thereby reducing the risk of serious conditions caused by hookworms and roundworms.

6. Use monthly heartworm preventive religiously. Many brands of heartworm preventive also contain dewormers. Dogs and cats are often times re-infected with intestinal parasites, several of which can be removed on a monthly basis by staying up to date on heartworm preventive.

7. Don’t eat or feed raw or undercooked meat. Cooking meat to the appropriate temperature is a sure step to prevent parasitic infection. Many types of parasitic larvae will inhabit the muscle of certain animals, just waiting to be ingested so they can develop into adult parasites.

8. Use flea and tick preventives. Fleas and ticks can carry a variety of infectious diseases that can be transmitted to humans. Your dog or cat, being lower to the ground, are at a higher risk of getting flea and tick infestations. By using flea and tick preventives, you are reducing the number of infectious disease carriers that enter your house.

9. Prevent your dog from drinking contaminated water. Water that has been contaminated by other animals, either by feces or urine, has the potential to contain a multitude of infectious organisms that your dog can then transmit to you. It is a good idea to bring a bowl and fresh water with you on your outdoor excursions.

10. Keep up on routine veterinary care. Routine veterinary care, including fecal tests, blood tests, and vaccinations, are very important and should not be ignored.  Consider it not only for your pet’s health, but also for the health of you and your family.

People who have a weakened or a compromised immune system, such as those who are receiving chemotherapy, who have AIDS, or who are chronically ill, are at a much higher risk of obtaining severe zoonotic diseases. Strict guidelines must be followed to reduce risk of zoonotic disease transmission. In some cases, this may include complete avoidance of farm animals, petting zoos, and exotic species.

There are countless benefits to owning a pet. By following these top ten guidelines, you will greatly reduce the risk of zoonotic diseases and help keep you and your family healthy.        Alex Molldrem, DVM

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Pets, Shedding

Naturally Lower Pet Shedding

How to decrease your pet’s shedding, and help your own hair grow.

All pets shed – even the nearly hairless breeds such as Mexican Hairless dogs do so.

Dog shedding usually occurs in between seasons. They shed during spring to let go of old hairs as new ones push their way through. They also shed in late autumn to get rid of their lighter undercoat in exchange for a heavy and dense undercoat for the winter season.
Many cat and dogs also shed when they are emotionally stressed or frightened.
We cannot stop our pets from shedding; however, we can do several things to keep stray hair to a minimum. As well, if your dog or cats sheds excessively, it may be an indication that his skin is not as healthy as it should be.
So what can you do?
Here’s ONE thing you likely haven’t heard about..
What blackstrap molasses can do for your pets and yourself
Good for hair – One serving (two tablespoons) of blackstrap contains approximately 14 percent of our RDI of copper, an important trace mineral whose peptides help rebuild the skin structure that supports healthy hair. Consequently, long-term consumption of blackstrap has been linked to improved hair quality, hair regrowth in men and even a restoration of your hair’s original color!

Decrease in Dog and Cat Shedding- Dose it at 1 teaspoon/10lbs daily. If your pet’s hair is healthy, then it’s less likely to fall out prematurely. If your dog or cat is deficient in some to the nutrients required for healthy hair coat, then molasses can help with B vitamins, copper, iron, antioxidants.Safe sweetener for diabetics – Unlike refined sugar, blackstrap molasses has a moderate glycemic load of 55. This makes it a good sugar substitute for diabetics and individuals who are seeking to avoid blood sugar spikes. Moreover, one serving of blackstrap contains no fat and only 32 calories, making it suitable for a weight loss diet.

Laxative qualities – Blackstrap is a natural stool softener that can improve the regularity and quality of your bowel movements.

Rich in iron – Two tablespoons of blackstrap contain 13.2 percent of our RDI of iron, which our bodies need to carry oxygen to our blood cells. People who are anemic (including pregnant women) will greatly benefit from consuming 1-2 tablespoons of blackstrap molasses per day.

High in calcium and magnesium – Blackstrap molasses contains a mineral profile that has been optimized by nature for superior absorption. For example, two tablespoons of blackstrap contains 11.7 percent of our RDI of calcium and 7.3 percent of our RDI of magnesium. This calcium-magnesium ratio is ideal, since our bodies need large quantities of magnesium to help absorb similarly large quantities of calcium. Both of these minerals aid the growth and development of bones, making blackstrap a good safeguard against osteoporosis and other bone diseases.

Additional mineral content – Two tablespoons of blackstrap molasses also contains 18 percent of our RDI of manganese (which helps produce energy from proteins and carbohydrates), 9.7 percent of our RDI of potassium (which plays an important role in nerve transmission and muscle contraction), 5 percent of our RDI of vitamin B6 (which aids brain and skin development) and 3.4 percent of our RDI of selenium, an important antioxidant.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Insurance, Pets

Is Pet Insurance Really Worth It?

In their latest study, Consumer Reports concluded that pet owners with mostly healthy dogs or cats will not receive back in reimbursements what they pay in premiums. But, pet owners with dogs or cats that have major illnesses or chronic diseases that result in large or frequent claims are more likely to benefit from pet insurance. Is a study really needed to figure that out?

It is true that most pet owners who purchase pet insurance will not receive back in benefits what they pay in premiums. Pet insurance companies have to take in (premiums) more than they pay out (reimbursements). Otherwise, they couldn’t stay in business. But, this is true with virtually every other type of insurance you buy.

Then why buy pet insurance? You purchase pet insurance for the unexpected major or chronic problems that you would have trouble paying for out-of-pocket, like a fracture that requires surgery, gastrointestinal foreign body, Cushings disease, diabetes or arthritis. I often tell pet owners that pet insurance isn’t for the $150 urinary tract infection, but for the $3500 fracture repair, etc.

In the study, Consumer Reports compared premiums with reimbursements, from puppyhood until Roxy was ten years old. But many of the chronic and costly diseases that pets get occur during their senior years. Remember, if your pet lives long enough, it is inevitable that he or she will develop one or more chronic diseases that can usually be managed successfully with either surgery or medication — sometimes over several years. Cumulatively, this can sometimes add up to a significant expense.

Trupanion was the only newer company that they included in the study, and they reimbursed the most when compared to the other three companies. I think it would have been interesting to see how all of the newer companies would have fared in the study.

Consumer Report’s overall recommendation is that pet owners should open a savings account to pay for their pet’s healthcare expenses instead of buying a pet insurance policy. People who have lost sight of the primary purpose of pet insurance usually make this recommendation. I addressed this in a previous blog post.

Is the decision to purchase pet insurance always just a matter of dollars and cents? I think not, because many pet owners who purchase pet insurance realize that it’s possible they won’t ever be reimbursed the amount they pay in premiums. They do it for the peace of mind – knowing that they will be able to treat their beloved pet just in case something unexpected and costly does occur.

If we could just get Consumer Reports to use their crystal ball to forecast for pet owners who may be interested in purchasing pet insurance whether their pet will be mostly healthy or not — now that would be really helpful!                                  Dr. Doug Kenney

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

Dogs, Puppies

When is a Dog Considered Senior?

Pets age much faster than we do. The life span of a dog depends on its size or breed. In general, the larger the breed or size of the dog, the shorter the life span. For example, in a study of lifespans, only 13% of giant breed dogs lived to be over 10 years old. Conversely, 38% of small breed dogs live to be over 10 years of age.

Dogs are considered senior in the last 25% of their lives. Below is a list of the most common breeds with their life expectancies and age at which they are considered “senior”.

When your dog is senior, make sure they have a senior check-up with your veterinarian.

Breed Lifespan Senior Years
Affenpinscher 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Afghan Hound 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Airdale Terrier 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Akita 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Alaskan Malamute 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
American Eskimo 13 years 9.5 – 10 years
American Foxhound 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
American Staffordshire Terrier 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
American Water Spaniel 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Anatolian Sheepdog 12 – 13 years 9 – 10 years
Australian Cattle Dog 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Australian Shepherd 12 – 13 years 9 – 10 years
Australian Terrier 15 years 11 years
Basenji 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Basset Hound 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Beagle 14 – 15 years 10.5 – 11 years
Bearded Collie 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Beauceron 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Bedlington Terrier 13 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Belgian Malinois 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Belgian Sheepdog 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Belgian Tervuren 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Bernese Mountain Dog 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Bichon Frise 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Black and Tan Coonhound 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Black Russian Terrier 10 – 11 years 7.5 – 8 years
Bloodhound 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
Border collie 11 – 14 years 8 – 10.5 years
Border Terrier 13 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Borzoi 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Boston Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Bouvier Des Flandres 8 – 10 years 6.5 – 7.5 years
Boxer 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
Briard 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Brittany 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Brussels Griffon 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Bull Dog 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Bull Terrier 14 – 15 years 10.5 – 11 years
Bullmastiff 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Cairn Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Canaan Dog 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Cardigan Welsh Corgi 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 12 years 9 years
Chesapeake Bay Retriever 12 – 13 years 9 – 10 years
Chihuahua 15 – 18 years 11 – 13 years
Chinese Crested 12 – 16 years 9 – 12 years
Chinese Shar Pei 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Chow Chow 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
Clumber Spaniel 12 – 13 years 9 – 10 years
Cocker Spaniel-American 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Cocker Spaniel-English 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Collie 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Curly Coated Retriever 8 – 12 years 6 – 9 years
Breed Lifespan Senior Years
Dachshund 15 – 18 years 11 – 13 years
Dalmatian 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Dandie Dinmont Terrier 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Doberman Pinscher 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
English Foxhound 10 years 7.5 – 10.5 years
English Setter 10 – 14 years 7.5 – 10.5 years
English Springer Spaniel 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
English Toy Spaniel 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Field Spaniel 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Finnish Spitz 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Flat Coated Retriever 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Fox Terrier – Smooth 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Fox Terrier – Wirehair 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
French Bulldog 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
German Pinscher 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
German Shepherd Dog 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
German Shorthaired Pointer 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
German Wirehaired Pointer 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Giant Schnauzer 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Glen Imaal Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Golden Retriever 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Gordon Setter 12 – 13 years 9 – 10 years
Great Dane 9 – 10 years 6.5 – 7.5 years
Great Pyrenees 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Great Swiss Mountain Dog 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Greyhound 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Harrier 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Havanese 13 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Ibizan Hound 12 years 9 years
Irish Setter 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Irish Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Irish Water spaniel 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Irish Wolfhound 6 – 8 years 4.5 – 6 years
Italian Greyhound 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Japanese Chin 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Keeshond 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Kerry Blue Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Komondor 12 years 9 – 11 years
Kuvasz 11 – 14 years 8 – 10.5 years
Labrador Retriever 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Lakeland Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Lhasa Apso 15 years 11 years
Lowchen 10 – 15 years 7.5 – 11 years
Maltese 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Manchester Terrier – Standard & Toy 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Mastiff 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Miniature Bull Terrier 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Miniature Pinscher 15 years 11 years
Miniature Schnauzer 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Mix Breed – 1-15 pounds 15 – 18 years 11 – 13 years
Mix Breed – 16-40 pounds 11 – 14 years 8 – 10.5 years
Mix Breed – 41-75 pounds 8 – 13 years 6 – 9 years
Mix Breed >75 pounds 7 – 11 years 5 – 8 years
Breed Lifespan Senior Years
Neopolitan Mastiff 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
Newfoundland 7 – 10 years 5 – 7.5 years
Norfolk Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Norwegian Elkhound 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Norwich Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Old English Sheepdog 10 – 12 years 4.5 – 9 years
Otter Hound 12 years 9 years
Papillon 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Parson Russell Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Pekingese 13 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Pembroke welsh Corgi 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen 10 – 14 years 7.5 – 10.5 years
Pharaoh Hound 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Plott Hound 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Pointer 13 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Polish Lowland Sheepdog 13 – 14 years 9 -10.5 years
Pomeranian 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Poodle Miniature 15 – 18 years 11 – 13 years
Poodle Standard 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Poodle Toy 15 – 18 years 11 – 13 years
Portuguese Water Dog 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Pug 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Puli 12 – 16 years 9 – 12years
Redbone Coonhound 11 – 12 years 8 – 9 years
Rhodesian Ridgeback 8 – 12 years 6 – 9 years
Rottweiler 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Saint Bernard 8 – 10 years 6 – 7.5 years
Saluki 13 – 16 years 9 – 12 years
Samoyed 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Schipperke 15 years 11 years
Scottish Deerhound 11 – 12 years 8 – 9 years
Scottish Terrier 10 – 13 years 7.5 – 10 years
Sealyham Terrier 14 years 10.5 years
Shetland Sheepdog 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Shiba Inu 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Shih Tzu 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Siberian husky 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Silky Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Skye Terrier 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Soft – Coated Wheaten Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Spinone Italiano 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Staffordshire Bull Terrier 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Standard Schnauzer 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Sussex Spaniel 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Tibetan Mastiff 9 – 11 years 6.5 – 8 years
Tibetan Spaniel 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Tibetan Terrier 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Toy Fox Terrier 15 years 11 years
Vizsla 14 – 15 years 10.5 – 11 years
Weimaraner 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
Welsh Springer Spaniel 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Welsh Terrier 10 – 12 years 7.5 – 9 years
West Highland white Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years
Whippet 12 – 15 years 9 – 11 years
Wirehaired Pointing Griffon 12 – 14 years 9 – 10.5 years
Yorkshire Terrier 14 – 16 years 10.5 – 12 years

At what age is a puppy no longer considered a puppy?


Answer

Hi – thanks for your email. When a puppy becomes an adult depends on the size or breed of dog. There are no hard and fast rules.

For many, the 1-year mark is used as a time most dogs were considered to transition from puppies to adults. However, there are also some subtle variations based on breed or size. In general, smaller breeds are often mature more quickly than larger breeds.

Many toy or small breeds may be considered adults at 9 months to 1 year of age. Giant breeds are often not considered adults until about 18 months of age.

Some believe dogs are considered “adult” when they reach 80 to 90% of their adult weight.

A couple articles that might be helpful to you are What to Expect from Your 12-month-old Puppy and What Your 12-month-old Puppy Needs.

Best of luck!

Dr. Debra Primovic – DVM

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Watch for These Signs of Stress in Dogs

Signs of Stress in Dogs
How Your Dog Looks When He’s Relaxed

In order to recognize when your dog is anxious, it is important to be familiar with how he behaves when he’s relaxed. Pay particular attention to his face. His eyes will be soft and rounded or possibly slightly squinted. The coloring of his eyes will be easily seen. He will hold his ears semierect and forward (unless he has floppy ears). When he interacts with a person, his ears may go back slightly in a polite social gesture. His mouth will be relaxed — in fact, it may look like he’s smiling.

Pay Attention to His Posture

Your dog’s body language can also convey his comfort. A relaxed dog should carry his weight evenly on all four paws. When he is playing, he may use goofy, overly exaggerated, bouncy movements. He may also exchange social gestures with his doggy friends, including play bows, paw slaps and quick turns to invite a chase.

Recognizing Signs of  Stress in Dogs

A stressed-out dog will probably exhibit different body language than his chill peers. A stressed-out canine may stand in one place and lift a front paw or shift his weight away from whatever is scaring him. He may turn his head and body away, cower or lower his body and attempt to slink away. You may see a change in his activity level as well. He may escalate and become hyperactive or freeze in place and refuse to move. He may appear more on edge and ready to react defensively.

The Face of Stress

When your dog feels anxious, he may close his mouth tightly or pull his lips back in a tense grimace. This can be a sign that he is preparing to growl, snarl, snap or bite. You may notice that the whiskers on his muzzle are erect and that the whisker beds appear more pronounced. The whites of his eyes may be more pronounced. You may notice that he has an intense and direct stare or engages in hypervigilant scanning of the environment. He may avoid eye contact or frequently turn away from people or other canines. He may blink excessively — or not at all.

Watch the Ears

Your dog’s ears can also signal feelings of anxiety or stress. When your dog is alert or aroused, his ears may become more erect. If he reacts to stress by being submissive, he may move his ears back so that they lie close to or flat against his head. If your dog has floppy ears, it may be harder to distinguish this movement; watch for the base of his ears to rotate back and the ears themselves to move slightly back from their neutral position.

Listen for Clues

An anxious dog may also vocalize — he may bark, whimper, whine or growl, or make some other type of distress signal. Depending on the dog and the context, these vocalizations may indicate fear or aggression.

Other Signs of Stress in Dogs

Like humans, canines experience physiological symptoms of stress. These may include respiratory changes, such as excessive panting, slow or shallow breathing, excessive drooling or shedding, trembling, or sweaty paws. His general behavior may change, too. He may yawn, attempt to hide, or jump and startle easily. He may act goofy and hyper without proper context, or he may pace restlessly.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

Behavior, Cats

Why Do Cats Knead

Cat Kneading Behavior

1. Because it’s Instinctual

Cats Kneading
Kittens knead instinctively, doing so stimulates their mother’s milk production. Photo credit: SINGTO2/iStock

The most logical answer is that kneading is an instinctual behavior that at one time helped your cat meet her most base instinct: Survival.

In order for kittens to nurse from the mama cat, they must knead their mother’s mammary glands to stimulate the flow of milk. The kitten is immediately “rewarded” with milk for this behavior. Since we all know that great positive training lasts a lifetime, it’s quite possible your cat remembers she must “knead” in exchange for a reward. That reward might be your warm lap or a reminder that it’s time to put the book down and feed your cat.

Kneading provides sustenance, comfort and security; which means that in this simple action, three base needs in Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs are met.  That’s a lot of reward for only a little work.

2.  Cat Kneading: To Show the Love

Cats have a number of scent glands near the base of their claws (which is just one more reason it’s cruel to declaw). These scent glands emit pheromones that are as individual as a fingerprint and act as a marker, which helps your cat indicate what is and isn’t her property. This act of kneading might be a way for your cat to claim you as her own. What a privilege.

It’s also one of the reasons cats have such a fine tuned sense of direction: they can quite literally follow their own scent home.

3. To Help You Have a Better Day

Kneading is never done in times of stress, fear or anger. If your cat becomes suddenly threatened, angry or fearful, the kneading will come to an abrupt stop. Since cats only knead when they are happy, it’s fairly easy to conclude that your cat is kneading because she wants to show you that she’s happy and maybe, just maybe, she wants you to be happy ,too.

4. To Stretch Their Claws

Your cat’s claws are complex tools that perform many different functions. Since cats naturally shed the outer sheath of their claws every so often to allow new, sharper claws to come in, it’s important for a cat to stretch out her claws and help release that outer sheath.

Other times, the new claws have just come in and it might be that she’s giving one or two of them a test run.

5. Cats Kneading: To Claim You

Just before entering estrus (going into heat), female cats will often knead the ground or a male cat to show she is ready to mate. Your cat might be transferring this behavior onto you to show that she’s officially your cat and happy to be your (platonic) partner in life.

Stacy Mantle

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372