Dog Psychology: Is Your Dog an Extrovert or an Introvert?

Is Your Dog an Extrovert or an Introvert?

My Border Collie Echo doesn’t like crowds, just like me, but Trinket? She’s the opposite of shy. What about your dogs?

  |  Jun 12th 2013  |   32 Contributions


I am an introvert at heart. I know that because every personality test I’ve ever taken says that I am an introvert. Also, crowds wear me out. Also, I am perfectly fine being alone. Well, alone except for my dogs, and since I have five dogs that means I am never really alone, at least not for long.

Echo and I don’t like crowds — we’re far happier when we’re out alone in nature.

We know people fall somewhere along the introvert/extrovert spectrum, but have you ever thought about where your dog might fall? I think about it all the time, not just as a dog trainer but as a dog owner. If we knew more about dogs’ personalities, it would help to create better matches between dog and owners. After all, you are committing at least ten years to your dog and many dollars in vet care, so why not know going in whether your dog is outgoing or more on the shy side? Why not know for sure which kind of dog you prefer?

The dogs in my pack are more outgoing than I am.

I’ve always been drawn to breeds such German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Dobermans, etc., and have shared my life with many shepherds and one intense Rottweiler. Generally speaking, they seem to be more of an extroverted breed, though of course there is great variance in any breed. For many years I was hung up on Scottish Terriers -– if that breed isn’t extroverted than none are. Something shifted in me more than a decade ago and I found myself attracted to herding breeds, Border Collie specifically.

Trinket is watching Radar watch our horses, which he feels he ought to shepherd somehow.

When I started looking for a rescue Border Collie in need — most of my dogs have been rescues and I’ve fostered 400-plus dogs over a decade — I kept hearing a rather ugly saying about herding dogs: “You kick a Heeler; you scream at an Australian Shepherd; you whisper to a Border Collie.” (And no, not as in The Dog Whisperer whispering. He actually shouts at dogs with his coarse body language when he tosses them on their backs to teach ’em who’s boss.) I love Heelers and Aussies and wouldn’t yell or kick at either breed, but the whispering part got to me regarding Border Collies. I ended up with a brother and sister pair whom I rescued from the back of a horse trailer. They had nearly become feral because the ignorant breeder refused to let them around people “so they bond with their new owners.”

My Border Collies happened to be monster sheep herders. I took the female, Echo, to a sheep herding clinic when she was one year old. The clinician told me she had big talent, just before he yelled at me and threw me out of the herding round pen. It was so hot that day, and because my Echo was so sensitive to me and my movements, when I got cussed out I momentarily put my hands on my hips and gave Echo a hard stare –- not meaning to. I was complaining about the heat with my body and Echo took it as a threat that the sheep were mine and she backed off. I hurt her sensitive Border Collie feelings with just my body language.

Because Trinket is so social and outgoing, I have to adapt when I’m with her.

Echo, like me, doesn’t like crowds. She and I are both much more comfortable outside in nature, preferably hiking a mountain in gorgeous Colorado, where we live. Echo becomes bold around sheep or my donkeys, which may appear to her as particularly funny-looking sheep. She is friendly to guests in our house but is timid in the way she approaches to be petted.

My newest family edition –- a four-month-old German Shepherd puppy named Trinket -– is the opposite of shy. She loves everybody. She is also bold in training. Just this week we were doing some nose work in our basement and I had out the food box up on a chair. She couldn’t quite locate the box but she got damn close when she launched herself fearlessly onto the shelf three feet up and next to the food box. Nothing seems to scare her.

Trinket never met a person or a critter she didn’t love.

People fawn over both dogs when I walk with them in town, but they flip out over Trinket. Is it because she rushes to meet them, tail wagging and happy as a clam to say how much she loves them, even though she just met them? Echo would never do that. She will walk up to a stranger and sit politely, and if you want to pet her, that’s okay. If you don’t, that’s okay, too.

Perhaps Trinket and the humans she loves are getting a mutual high on a feedback loop: she runs to great them and they rush to pet her in return. She says in her doggy way: “You are a good human and I looooooove you.” We all love to be loved. Echo’s approach mirrors my own on meeting strangers: “Meh.”

I’ve noticed something about myself recently as it relates to Trinket. I now expect people to tell me how gorgeous and friendly she is, as though I had anything to do with that (I didn’t). I even find myself mad if people fail to notice her, as though she were my daughter and she was the prettiest, most popular girl in school and that somehow reflects positively on me.

Echo doesn’t rush up to strangers the way Trinket does — and that’s okay, too.

When I am with Echo, I find myself giving other humans a wide berth, because Echo isn’t wild about strangers petting her. I find myself presenting my own body language with a “don’t talk to me” stance, which is for me a natural way not to have to talk to strangers (it works). I appreciate that Echo and I don’t always want to chitchat with every person on our path.

Trinket is such a lover that I got stuck talking to a drunk lady in town last week. She told me she would fall on her knees and worship Trinket and, oh, would I please give her my dog? She felt Trinket was her soulmate. Just after that, Trinket jumped up on a man minding his own business drinking coffee at an outdoor table. She spilled his coffee on him. He didn’t seem terribly upset because then she tried to lick the coffee off of him …

Trinket will sit in my lap for hours, but she gives every stranger a moment of her time.

I also find a little smugness in something Trinket does. She expresses absolute delight in meeting strangers, but she’s quick about it. She’ll say hello and “I love you!” in a just a minute and then she’s done and on to the next stranger. And, she always looks back at me in between meeting newcomers, and I am pretty sure I see true love in her eyes. She is willing to sit in my lap for hours, but for strangers, they get a minute and that’s it.

I have the best of both worlds in Echo and Trinket, and they each express a true part of my nature. I don’t wish them, or me, to be any different than we are.         by Annie Phenix:

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Managing Dog Play-Biting/Mouthing/Agressive Biting

Managing Dog Play-Biting

Lisa Giroux, 

All dogs play using their teeth, and this can be a large concern to pet owners.  Whether it be a very young puppy incessantly chewing on hands or an older dog that grabs pant legs or shirt sleeves, it can be an extremely annoying behaviour to pet owners and the people who encounter the dog.  At worst, it can escalate into more severe issues that are much harder to deal with.  In any case, training is necessary and advisable for any dog, no matter what the size or breed, so that he can learn to behave appropriately.

One of the most common issues for new puppy owners is how to handle their puppy’s needle-sharp teeth.  Parents of small children feel the greatest brunt of the problem.  The children run around, the puppy gets excited, and the next thing you know the puppy is hanging off the pants or hair of a child that is screaming in pain.  Although the puppy is not trying to hurt anyone, its needle-sharp teeth easily break the skin.  Many a puppy has been re-homed or put down because it has put scratches or holes in a child’s face.  Adult owners of new puppies often feel frustrated because they cannot interact with their new pet without having hands bitten and clothes torn.  No matter what they do, it always ends painfully, and they start to think the puppy is “bad” or “doesn’t like them” and they might even wonder if the mouthing will lead to serious biting when the dog grows up.

Older dogs who mouth a lot scare strangers who aren’t sure if the dog is behaving aggressively.  Also, dogs who mouth their owners a lot are often confused about the leadership structure in the household (and think they might have a shot at being the boss, which can lead to multiple serious problems). 

For these reasons, dog owners should know what mouthing is, reasons why it needs to be thoughtfully and seriously managed, and how to teach a dog appropriate use of its mouth among humans. 

What is dog play-biting or mouthing?

All dogs play and interact using their jaws, teeth and tongue. Called “mouthing” or “play-biting” (very different from aggressive biting), it is their instinctual programming to play with their littermates and other dogs by jaw-wrestling and inhibited biting.  Most dogs attempt to play with humans in this way as well, especially during puppyhood when the urge to use their mouth is strongest.

Play-biting serves an important purpose in a dog’s life.  Because dogs use their mouths to interact with their world (unlike humans, who usually use their hands) it is crucial that a dog keeps this sensory organ in good shape with lots of exercise.  Jaw-wrestling and inhibited biting are important parts of a dog’s social behaviour, and much rehearsal is necessary for these social behaviours to become honed to the point where the dog can function properly in doggie society.  So, dogs mouth and play-bite throughout their lives to learn how hard or soft they should bite, and to keep their mouths speedy and functional.

Young puppies learn a great deal about how to appropriately use their mouths from their mother and littermates from four weeks of age.  The mother dog will quickly and firmly discipline a puppy for mouthing too hard or too much, and the littermates will also teach each other when things have gone too far.  People who don’t know any better often feel that because the puppies are weaned (happens at around 4 weeks old) and because the mother is becoming “mad” or “rough” with the puppies, that it’s time to send them on to their homes.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  Puppies need that experience in order to develop proper inhibition.  Puppies that are taken away earlier than 7 weeks often mouth excessively and harder, and have more difficulty learning appropriate use of their mouth.  Because play-biting is part of the social repertoire, dogs taken away too early can have more trouble than average when interacting with other dogs.

Why does mouthing need to be managed?

Dogs have to live with people.  For this reason it is critical for dogs to learn appropriate use of their mouths with people.  Because dogs can bite with great force, even in play, it is crucial to get a management plan and thoughtfully teach your dog what is appropriate, and what isn’t.

In particular, great care needs to be taken with dogs and children, who present the ultimate in excitement for a canine.  They move quickly, they like to have fun, and best of all…they SQUEAK when bitten, better than the best squeaky toy on the pet store shelf!  A child’s natural reaction to painful puppy teeth is to back or run away screaming shrilly.  This stimulates the puppy to higher excitement levels and harder, more intense mouthing.  An adult dog can badly bruise a child while innocently trying to play, and at the extreme worst, become so stimulated that they see the child as prey (especially when they hear that rabbit-like squeal and see the child running away).

Children like to “horse around” physically with dogs and often actually encourage the mouthing (until it gets too hard, at which point they “squeak”).  This can lead to ripped clothing, bruises, broken skin.  In the worst case, it can lead the dog to believe that the child is similar in status to a littermate or another dog that is lower in status.  Dogs readily discipline dogs that are lower in status. A dog that has been allowed to mouth children can unintentionally learn that it’s OK to discipline a child for wrongdoings such as bumping into them, disturbing the dog while it is resting, trying to put the leash on and off, and for coming to close to anything the dog “owns.” 

The same is true when adults horse around with a dog and allow mouthing.  Dogs that are allowed to use their mouths on humans will sometimes get the idea that they are equal to or higher in status, and certainly will feel free to whip around and mouth during necessary handling or other times when the dog disagrees with what’s going on. For instance, when dogs are lying on the couch and the human tries to get them to move over, the dog that has been extensively allowed to mouth might choose to snap or even bite (the same thing he would do if a lesser-status dog made the brazen move of trying to push him out of his comfy spot).  Putting on or taking off the leash becomes a struggle to stay out of the way of the dog’s teeth.  Vet visits become a nightmare and nail clipping virtually impossible.

The dog learns that sometimes when it bites, it can cause a human to flinch, move away or stop.  This is a very dangerous thing for a dog to learn.  Dogs do what works.  If snapping or biting has worked for them in the past, they will continue to try it in the future.  For example, a dog that has whipped around and snapped during leashing will certainly escalate to actual biting in the future if the whipping around and snapping made the person even slightly flinch (and it’s almost impossible NOT to flinch under those circumstances).

This disciplinary behaviour can no longer be called “play-biting.”  It is the real use of force and aggression to get their way, and definitely stems from the dog thinking it is allowed to use its mouth on people. 

Another reason for thoughtful management of play-biting is how dogs act with people outside the immediate family home. If the dog encounters a stranger and tries to play-bite it can easily be misconstrued as aggression, which is dangerous to the dog.  Often, dogs rip people’s clothing in an attempt to play.  It’s easy for a dog to bruise or break skin while playing. All it takes is a person or two that claims the dog “bit” them to send the dog on a one-way trip to the vet’s office.

For all of these reasons, it is inadvisable to allow your puppy or dog to play with you using its mouth on your skin, clothing or hair. 

When dogs play together, they usually play-bite and mouth.  Often there is a great deal of growling and “imitation” aggression which can look and sound like true aggression—loud and scary!  This is usually nothing to be worried about—it’s practice for dog/dog social behaviour, and you shouldn’t interfere unless one of the dogs is much larger than the other, much more physically fit (as in puppy/old dog situations) or much shyer.  If you see desperate attempts to get away, it’s a good time to break it up.  If the tone of the wrestling play begins to look more serious, it might be a good time for a break to allow the excitement levels to die down a bit before continuing play.  Otherwise, play-biting between dogs is a nice way for the dogs to enjoy themselves, and is really important for maintenance of social skills. Generally it is not something to be concerned about and will not lead to dog/dog or dog/human aggression.

How is play-biting managed?

Fortunately, managing excessive mouthing is a simple exercise that gives speedy results and is very easy for the dog to learn.  Dogs readily learn to distinguish between appropriate dog/dog play and appropriate dog/person play.  Whether it’s a new puppy, a new older dog, or a dog that is already in your household, the methods for management are the same.  Prevention, Redirection, and Punishment.

Prevention:  Prevention of the mouthing is the first priority.  Do not horse around with the dog and encourage it to mouth.  It is difficult for the dog to learn that mouthing is only appropriate SOMETIMES.  Consistency is the key.  Also, be aware that as the excitement level of play gets higher, the tendency to mouth goes up exponentially.  This means that if you are playing with your dog and he begins to get really excited, he will probably mouth you. Predict this fact and try to make a break in the play BEFORE the excitement levels go too high. In dog/child interactions, parents should carefully observe the puppy and break up the play before it gets out of hand. 

Also be aware that as excitement levels increase, playful mouthing can easily become very hard biting or true aggression that is meant to do harm.  Dogs that get to a really high level of excitement lose bite control/inhibition and can actually “click over” into aggressive mode.  This is why it is particularly important to monitor excitement levels in play, and try to keep things to a medium or lower level.

Remember that dogs learn to do things by rehearsing the behaviour over and over.  If the dog needs to learn to sit on command, the learning takes place by doing it again and again, and the dog gets better and better at it.  So if the dog is allowed to play-bite again and again, he will definitely get better at it.  The best way to teach a dog to mouth/play-bite is to allow him to do it! Prevention of this kind of learning is the first (and most crucial) step in managing this issue.

Redirection:  A great way to play with your dog without encouraging mouthing is to use a toy or bone.  In this way you can physically play with a dog, allow them to use their mouth, yet teach them that there is to be no contact with human skin, hair or clothing.  You can get the same fun down on the floor horsing around allowing the pup to chew on a bone you are holding in your hand, a tug toy, or a stuffed animal.  

The human must control the game, NOT the dog.  Never start a game because the dog brought you the toy–keep fun toys up off the floor, and get them out only when you want to interact with the dog (you can of course leave some chewing items down).  Then initiate the game and have a great time!  To end the game, simply take the dog’s collar, hold him still, and let go of the toy.  Wait for the dog to drop the toy, give a treat or praise, and put the toy away. 

If a dog begins to mouth you, and you have a toy nearby, you can firmly say NO, then pick up the toy and encourage play while praising.  This shows the dog that teeth on skin or clothes is a no-no but teeth on toy is fine.

Redirection allows the dog to play in the way nature intended, without harmful side effects.  The dog gets a mentally and physically entertaining experience and you get to “horse around” with your dog!

Punishment:  The dog needs to understand in very clear terms what IS allowed, and positive reinforcement should be used as much as possible, but at some point (especially in the case of puppies, who mouth much more than adult dogs) punishment will be necessary. 

What works best as punishment for mouthing is simply to end the game.  Have a baby gate or small room nearby to where you normally interact with your dog, and as soon as his teeth touch you, immediately stop and put him behind the baby gate or door for a time-out.  It must be done extremely quickly, the instant he touches you with his teeth.  Immediately drop eye contact, stop speaking to him, scoop him up or take him by the collar and good-bye doggie for a time-out from humans.  The whole thing should be unemotional and FAST. 

The play must be stopped and dog in the time-out area within 10 seconds of the mouthing for this to work.  In addition, it might be a good idea to intentionally stimulate mouthing (get down on the floor and horse around) over and over for 5-10 minutes so that you can quickly show him that not mouthing=continued play and mouthing=game over.  Many repetitions in a short period of time is the quickest way for a dog to learn.  With new puppies, doing this twice or three times a day will help them to understand more quickly. 

You needn’t be harsh or physical with your dog to teach him not to mouth—just consistent.  TOOTH CONTACT=TIME OUT.  No exceptions!

Using this method also produces a very beneficial side effect—it teaches the dog “who’s the boss” and reinforces that humans are the leaders.

Advanced Method:  Another method is to allow the dog to mouth your hands, and time him out as suggested above only when he bites too hard. 

HARD tooth contact=TIME OUT. The game is always initiated and ended by the human and not the dog.

It is theorized that this method teaches the dog that humans are much more delicate than dogs. Certainly dogs playfully bite one another much harder than our sensitive skin can tolerate.  Using this method, you might be able to get some “insurance” that the dog will realize that bites to humans need to be more inhibited, so that if the dog ever does bite fearfully (a possibility with any dog) hopefully the damage will not be as great as it could be.  This theory is of course impossible to prove, but makes a lot of sense.  Correct implementation of this method does not produce the harmful side effects of un-managed mouthing.

However, this method presents several challenges to its success and is not the best choice for dog trainers to advise to clients, or for inexperienced people to attempt.  It is difficult for a person to accurately judge just how hard is “too hard” on a consistent basis.  Most dogs are interacting with more than just one person in the family, and if Jimmy lets the dog mouth very hard before timing him out and Molly times him out for just a little pressure, there is so much inconsistency that it’s difficult for the dog to learn.

This method requires extremely good judgment and timing.  Because most people are not experienced dog trainers, good success is difficult for the average home. In capable hands and with utter consistency, however, it is probably an ideal solution for managing mouthing.

I use this method successfully with my own dogs, but do not recommend it to most pet homes due to my experiences with a general lack of success in those situations.

Other Methods:

Dog books and internet sites widely promote many different methods for managing mouthing. Unfortunately, these methods don’t often work, sometimes make the mouthing worse, or cause unwanted side effects such as fear or aggression.

Forceful Methods:  These include slapping the muzzle, squeezing the mouth shut, forcefully shoving your hand down the dog’s throat, etc.  Sometimes these methods work to stop the mouthing, but usually produce unwanted side effects.  A dog with a soft temperament will usually stop mouthing, but has a good chance of becoming fearful, anxious, distrustful of his owner, or even become so fearful that he bites. With “harder” dogs, this method rarely works to stop the mouthing and will usually actually cause the mouthing to get worse.  With Labrador Retrievers, for example, this method is FUN.

Pushy, physical dogs actually take the physical contact as a “bring it on” signal and escalate the mouthing, or may try to bite you to discipline you for daring to push THEM around! 

Yelping:  Puppies and dogs often yelp when they are bitten too hard, causing the dog doing the biting to cease momentarily.  It is theorized that when the puppy bites, imitating this yelping or yelling OUCH in a high-pitched voice will make him stop.  The yelping/OUCH method sometimes work, but only with pups of a shyer or softer temperament.  Bolder pups can take it as an exciting “squeak” and become more excited which of course leads to more, harder mouthing.  If you wish to try this method, YELP loudly and sharply, and if the puppy stops mouthing, quietly and slowly stroke the puppy’s head and verbally praise as soon as they stop. 

Be aware that with any method you choose, puppies will be much more persistent in their mouthing attempts than adult dogs and require far more attention and consistency of handling in order to improve.  Certain breeds such as terriers and nearly all of the retriever breeds have extremely high “oral fixations” and puppies from these breeds usually need careful management for months before the concept is truly understood and accepted.

If your gut feeling is that the biting is coming from a motivation other than play, you might be right and should seek professional help for a solution.  The problem will not go away on its own and action needs to be taken to prevent further escalation.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

Rainbow Bridge

The Rainbows Bridge Poem

RainbowBridge.com

Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water and sunshine, and our friends are warm and comfortable.
All the animals who had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor. Those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by. The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent. His eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster.

You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together…. 

Author unknown…

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

 


Is the Pain of Losing a Dog Stopped You From Getting Another One?

Has Losing a Dog Ever Stopped You from Getting Another One?

The thing with animals is that they have terribly short lives; heartbreak comes so very quickly.

I’ll never understand people who don’t like animals.

When I was about 10, my sister, my Mum, my Dad and I (back when we were a foursome and not an eightsome) rented a log cabin in Wales for my Mum’s birthday. My parents loved to take us on the kind of holidays that would involve wellies and fields and cows and floods. So much rain. Have you ever been to Wales in October? It’s wetter than an otter’s pocket.

We’d stay for a week in the middle of nowhere and play card games inside while the rain beat down on the wood outside, the tiny TV showing some Welsh-speaking soap that we attempted to watch, making up our own storylines. My sister and I would fight and then write in our respective diaries, underlining in different colored gel-pens the many reasons why the other was a meanie.

Me and six-month-old Bumper. Check out my Kappa tracksuit! So ’90s.

We loved it.

The Octobers in Wales all sort of blur into one, as memories do when you’re a child unless something remarkable happens, like you got your ears pierced or you kissed one of the Woods twins in the field by your house in the summer. One of those holidays does stick in my mind, though.

The log cabin that year was part of what I remember to be like a nature reserve. It probably wasn’t, there were probably houses right by us. But I remember the exciting isolation, feeling like Laura Ingalls or an Enid Blyton character. Every day we played out our own Famous Five adventure, but with four of us, two being adults.

Outside the cabin was a fenced-in field with horses in it, and despite being the most allergic child on earth with streaming eyes and sneezing explosively every time I looked at them, my sister and I would go and chat to them, and give them presents of grass and sugar cubes.

One morning we watched as the horses cantered around the field and spied a tiny little kitten dancing around their hooves, a tiny little thing, all bones and ears. Our parents came to investigate and to our surprise this teeny wild kitty came bounding over, lolloping around on paws too big for her and crashing to a stop at our feet.

Little old lady Bella, the day before she died last month.

When she discovered we were her friends, she didn’t leave us alone. We quickly realized that she was alone in the world — bar the horses — and was probably going to fade away to nothing. We drove out to the nearest supermarket and stocked up on kitten food and fed her every morning while we were there, her tiny, broken mews waking us in the morning. We’d head out for the day and return in the dark, her head lifting from the outside deck of the cabin as she heard the car and jumping up onto all four paws as we ran over to her to say good evening.

The farmer who owned the land told us how she’d been abandoned by her mother, that she would surely die. He didn’t have the time or money to look after her, this pretty little thing with those big brown eyes and the almost smiling mouth that dribbled with pleasure if you gave her some attention. She returned home with us.

Bella ruled the roost. We doted on her, and she adored us — she’d come into my bedroom at night and sleep under my duvet with me, her head on the pillow next to mine. She died last month, an old thing, but still pretty and loving and tiny.

Bella was joined by Bumper, the most ridiculously loving Boxer you could ever imagine, who would shake his whole body in joy in lieu of a tail when he saw you. I remember hot days walking in the parks near our house, hiding in the long grass and staring up at the sky, with six weeks of summer holidays stretching out endlessly while he licked my face to tell me he liked me and that I was all right.

Bumper at Christmas with the family. This was pretty normal for us.

His presence in our house was massive, a character so huge that you couldn’t help but love him endlessly, even when he would eat all the turkey for the Boxing Day dinner overnight and then crap all over the living room before our guests arrived.

Bumper was there when my parents broke up and I left school. I would walk him around town while listening to my iPod and stomping, stomping, stomping all the hurt out. Bumper was there while my Dad went through chemo, twice, while I disappeared, unable to watch it happen. Bumper was there to be his best friend while I ran off to Ibiza so that I could pretend it wasn’t happening.

The thing with big animals (animals in general) is that they have terribly short lives. Ten years is nothing, an instant, a blur of walks and hugs and throwing massive sticks into lakes. A massive family presence, visibly fading and ageing after only a few years until you know they’re about to go, so you run away again.

I’m 26 now, and as with many people my age, I can’t imagine actually ever being able to afford to live in a house with a garden.

There is an ache in me that knows that I want a cat or a dog to be mates with and hang out with. Our balcony is a perfect home for the many pigeons who come and hang out and leave their mess all over it, but we won’t be able to get a pet. But a big part of me thinks that’s OK, because the heartbreak of losing an animal comes all too soon. And I don’t want anything to run away from.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

11 Hazardous Items to Ban From Your Home For Your Dogs Health

Some items are so dangerous to dogs’ health they should never be in any house with a dog.


Dogs are unbelievable on many levels. They are unbelievably good companions for humans. Their beneficial effects on our mental and physical health are so numerous that they defy belief. They are unbelievably loyal and loving. And they are unbelievably silly.

That last item — the silliness of dogs — is part of their charm. But it also gets them into trouble. Dogs will eat the darnedest things, and many of these things can cause them serious harm. This article is dedicated to some of those things.

 

In fact, some common household items are so lethally dangerous — and so attractive to dogs — that I recommend that they never be present in homes with dogs.

If you own a dog, I recommend that your household be forever free of these six items:

1. Sugar-free gum and candy

Xylitol is an artificial sweetener that is purported to have actual health benefits in humans. For instance, it supposedly reduces cavities in people that use it in place of sugar. Dogs, however, reap no health benefits from xylitol whatsoever. In fact, xylitol can cause fatal hypoglycemia and liver failure in dogs. Dogs exposed to the stuff might require several days in the hospital for dextrose supplementation — and then might still suffer from fatal liver failure. I therefore recommend that dog owners keep their houses free of sugarless gums and candies containing xylitol.

Good for your teeth? Yes. Bad for your dog? Yes! Photo by Nomadic Lass.

2. Grapes and raisins

Although I’m a bit skeptical of xylitol’s human health benefits, I will concede that grapes and raisins are healthy and nutritious for us. Sadly, the same is not exactly true for canines. These fruits have been associated with lethal kidney failure in dogs. It is not clear whether the unidentified toxin is in the fruit itself, or whether it is produced by a mold that grows on the fruit, or something else altogether. What is clear is that some dogs will be in big trouble if they eat grapes or raisins. I recommend that your house be free of them, including the especially attractive (to dogs, and to me) raisin bread.

3. Pest-control products

Household pests certainly are nuisances. Gophers dig up the yard, snails and slugs destroy gardens, and mice and rats cause damage and contamination wherever they go. But the poisons designed to kill these pests also can kill dogs. Gopher bait liberates phosphide gas into dogs’ intestines, causing intestinal necrosis. A painful death can follow. Snail and slug bait causes tremors and seizures — again, a painful death can occur. Rat and mouse bait either contains products that prevent coagulation — leading to life-threatening hemorrhage — or a product that causes brain swelling and death due to neurological complications. An antidote exists for the hemorrhage-causing products, but they are being phased out in favor of the product that causes brain swelling and for which there is no antidote. All of these pesticides come in forms that are designed to be attractive to pests — and are therefore also attractive to dogs. Don’t keep them in your house or garage.

4. Antifreeze

Speaking of your garage, be aware that the antifreeze that might be stored there can be deadly toxic to dogs. It can cause fatal kidney failure. The main ingredient in antifreeze, ethylene glycol, tastes sweet and is attractive to dogs. All major antifreeze manufacturers have recently agreed to add bittering agents to their products to reduce canine and human exposures. However, older products might still be lurking and pose a significant risk. If you own a dog, don’t store antifreeze and don’t let your car’s radiator leak.

5. Sago palms

Sago palms are beautiful ornamental plants that also are phenomenally toxic when consumed by dogs. Dogs that consume them might suffer liver failure, leading to vomiting, jaundice, loss of appetite, diarrhea, uncontrollable hemorrhage, and death. No house with dogs should contain sago palms.

6. Chocolate

The final item that should never be present in dog-owning households is chocolate. Oh, who am I kidding? Dog-owning households will never be free of chocolate, and fortunately chocolate isn’t so dangerous that they need to be chocolate-free. Remember, however, that chocolate is almost as attractive to dogs as it is to people. It also is toxic to dogs, so keep it out of their reach.

In addition to this list, there are several other items that, although dangerous to dogs, aren’t such a huge risk that you need to rid your house of them.

Here’s five things to keep a sharp eye on:

1. Dishwashing detergent

Most people don’t realize that dishwasher detergent (and many other detergents and fabric softeners) is much more dangerous for dogs than regular soap. The individually wrapped packets seem to draw more canine attention than big boxes of powder, but it all has the potential to cause harm. Dishwasher detergent can cause serious damage to the mucus membranes of the mouth and intestines. Keep it locked up.

2. Foxtails

Although foxtails pose a risk wherever they grow, remember that many dogs are exposed in their own yards. I recommend that all dog owners regularly check their yards for these weeds. Remove all that are found.

3. Medication for humans

Myriad human medications are potentially dangerous to dogs. Both prescription and over-the-counter varieties pose a risk. Human medications always should be stored in an area that is inaccessible to dogs.

4. Garbage

If you have a big cookout, don’t forget that the garbage produced could pose a significant and nearly irresistible hazard to your dog. Rib bones, corn cobs, steak fat, and more can be found in cookout garbage and can wreak havoc on your canine friend.

5. Marijuana

I have to say it: if you have a dog, keep an eye on your stash. Although edible marijuana products are the most attractive to dogs, pets have been known to consume baggies of buds straight up. Marijuana toxicity usually isn’t fatal, but I am sorry to say that there have recently been reports of rare fatalities after consumption of medical-grade products.

Finally, remember that dogs are unsurpassed in their silliness. This means that they will consume just about anything you can imagine — and many things that you can not. This list — and any list of hazardous items for dogs — is therefore by necessity a partial one. As always, diligence can be your pal’s best friend.

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

 

 

Mourning the Loss of a Dog, My Logan

 

On April 22, 2013, Logan, my German Shepherd Dog, crossed over the Rainbow Bridge.  He had DM, Degenerative Myelopathy, a death sentence for a dog.  Some breeds are at risk for getting this, particularly GSD.  The dog must be euthanized for they will end up dying.  This is similar to MS in humans.

After I cried my heart out,  I went to Westside German Shepherd Rescue to adopt a GSD.

I bought Logan 8 years ago from a breeder in Germany.  My heart’s desire was to have a  GSD who was trained in Schutzhund, which is a dog field sport in Germany.  They take it very seriously:  there is a field where the dog works out, a judge and scorecard.  They are tested in tracking, obedience and protection.  Logan was Schutzhund Level 2.

Back to WGSR.  I took home a 2-yr-old GSD that I discovered had severe separation anxiety.  I left him home alone one day.  When I returned a lot of my crystal was smashed, kitchen blinds torn down, 2 lamps knocked over!!  He reacted violently to my leaving.  My vet also told me he had an autoimmune eye disease which would require regular vet visits and meds for his life!  I returned this dog to the rescue.  I simply could not afford the expenses involved.

I adopted another dog from WGSR who bit me, attacked my cat and 2 dogs I was boarding!!  My vet advised me to return her.  If she bites one of the dogs I’m boarding, it could open me up to liability.  Interestingly enough, I always name my dogs and cats very quickly, in minutes/hours.  I could not name this dog; nothing came to me.  Yes, I had to return this one too.

My friends had been telling me all along to get a puppy due to my business of boarding dogs in my home and my two cats.  So, I bought a puppy from a breeder.

I bought Logan 8 years ago because I wanted a particular kind of dog.  Now, I really wanted to save a dog from a shelter and give him a home.  There are way too many homeless dogs out there!!  Now I was not planning to shell out money to buy a dog.

The 8-week-old puppy I bought, however, had a bad heart.  My vet sent me to a cardiologist and she told me this dog was going to have major heart problems in his life and advised me to return him.   So, yep, returned him too.

Finally, I got 12-week-old GSD I named Bailey in exchange from the breeder.  He is doing just fine.  It took me 30 minutes to name him!   He does have diarrhea–my vet put him on special diet and meds–and he needs housebraking.  Ah, now there’s a challenge!!  Housebraking!  German Shepherd Dogs are very smart and I know he will catch on soon………..sooner, please!!

Now consider that in about four weeks, I brought 4 dogs to my vet.  Can you hear my money flying away?!

But it’s all worth it.  I have an adorable 14-week-old GSD puppy sleeping at my feet as I type this with his head on my foot.  I just love it!!

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

 

 

 

Don’t Buy Puppies from Pet Stores; Puppy Mills Facts

Back in 2008, Best Friends launched our puppy mill initiatives after identifying puppy mills as one of the primary sources of animals entering our nation’s shelters.

A revealing Best Friends–led study, just published in the current issue of the “Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association,” adds more weight to that analysis. Led by Dr. Frank McMillan, director of well-being studies at Best Friends, in collaboration with a highly regarded research team, the study compared the behavior profiles of pet store puppies with those acquired from hobbyist, noncommercial breeders. It is estimated that 99 percent of pet store puppies are sourced from high-volume commercial breeders, which is to say they come from puppy mills.

Dogs acquired as puppies from small, noncommercial breeders were selected for comparison for the following reasons:

1. They enter their new homes at approximately the same age as pet store pups do.
2. Their history prior to purchase is known.
3. They are, for the most part, purebred dogs.

In fact, the only difference then between the sampled groups was the nature of their breeding, whelping, weaning and prolonged, stressful transport. One is set in a commercial breeding environment with hundreds or even thousands of other dogs, while the other is set in a hobby breeder’s home environment with only a mother dog or a small group of household pets.

The difference in findings between the two groups was profound, but not surprising.

Problem behaviors exhibited by pet store dogs read like answers to a shelter surrender questionnaire, with the strongest effects observed in relation to aggressive behavior. For example, sexually intact pet store dogs were three times as likely to have owner-directed aggression as were sexually intact dogs acquired from small breeders. Pet store dogs were nearly twice as likely to have aggression toward unfamiliar dogs.

Additionally, pet store dogs were also 30 to 60 percent more likely to have stranger-directed aggression, aggression to other household dogs, as well as fear of dogs and nonsocial stimuli, separation anxiety, and touch sensitivity. Other undesirable behaviors included escaping from the home, sexual mounting of people and objects, and most forms of house soiling.

This Best Friends’ research effort is a follow-up to a 2011 study conducted by Dr. Frank and the same research team that compared adult puppy mill survivors to a sampling of dogs without any puppy mill history. The results of that study were equally dramatic, but likewise not at all surprising.

The adult breeding dogs from puppy mills showed significantly elevated levels of fears/phobias, compulsive/repetitive behaviors, and heightened sensitivity to being touched. “The most prominent difference was in the level of fear,” says Dr. Frank. “Compared to normal pet dogs, the chance of recovered puppy mill dogs scoring in the highest ranges for fear was six to eight times higher.”

The physical abuses associated with puppy mills are well documented. Puppy mills are just another version of factory farming, where the profit margin for the mostly rural mill operators is small. Production cost savings are paid for on the backs of the dogs held captive for breeding and their pet store–bound puppies.

For example, small cages mean that more animals can be crammed into limited space. Understaffed workers provide only subsistence level care for the dogs and pups. Low-cost, low-quality food results in dietary deficiencies and chronic disease. Puppies are force-weaned at an earlier-than-appropriate age so that they can arrive at the pet store at eight weeks of age. Veterinary care is nominal and is limited to the replacement cost of the animal. A puppy miller typically sells a pup to a middle man for as little as a couple of hundred dollars so the incentive to invest in medical care is essentially zero. Every corner that is cut represents a corresponding slice cut from the quality of life of the puppy mill dog.

This newly published research fills in the picture of the invisible psychological damage that puppy mills inflict on innocent, young dogs.

The entire pet trade industry — from breeder to pet store — is a disgrace and needs a major overhaul. Needless to say, there is often a considerable desire to “save” pet store puppies by buying them, but that sentiment is misguided because it merely makes room for another victim. The best way to fight puppy mills is to never buy from a pet store or an online retailer.

Many thanks to Dr. Frank and his research colleagues, James A. Serpell, PhD and Deborah L. Duffy, PhD from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, along with Elmabrok Masaoud, PhD and Ian R. Dohoo, DVM, PhD from the Department of Health Management, Atlantic Veterinary College, University of Prince Edward Island, Canada. Your work has given us another compelling argument in our campaign against the shame of puppy mills.

Gregory Castle
CEO
Best Friends Animal Society

Diana Ruth Davidson, Chief Pet Officer and Managing Nanny, Westside Dog Nanny

We offer pet services such as:  Pet Sitting,  In-Home Dog Boarding, Dog Walking, Overnights in your home, Doggie Day Care.

Diana@WestsideDogNanny.com
310 919 9372

 

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